how hard can it be....?.......

[art b]

the audi decided to develop a rather nasty screeching sound from within the front of the engine... 3 garages said they couldnt guess where it was coming from....

and it was impossible to tell....

so home it came and out came the tools...


engine cover off, remove vacum pump run it up.. no change...
remove aux  belt tensioner check lubricate and replace it .. no change,

remove aux belt run engine ...still screeching....rules out p/steerin, air con,alt, fan,

therfore its a cambelt driven problem...





of comes most of the front of the car, to reveal the timing belt and ...water pump ..and that s where the problem lies,











i have got this far without a manual..and with the help of tinternet.....it was a good job i didnt take it for a trip i had yesteday up the m1 as if the pump bearing seizes its good by belt and engine....


now ive got to find out how to remove the belt/ wheels  and covers to remove the water pump....wish me luck.....

but first im off to eddys for the weekend for some r&r

[art b]

the only good news ]so far] is that the water pumps are around 40 quid....

and someone told me today, that when they had theirs done the labour was over £500

[HardRockCamaro]

It annoys me that the entire front of many cars has to be removed these days to replace an engine part.  

[Cunning Plan]

Wow that looks like hassle

Which one is the water pump? I can see crank, fuel pump, cam belt tensioner, air conditioning pump and alternator?

.... or is it behind that lot?

[art b]

Quoting: Cunning Plan

Which one is the water pump?

you may well ask....!

its the cog peeking out behind the big fan,[an orangey colour]
on the cambelt down from the top pulley on the right, i actually have a bit more removed than in them pics..and the tensioner is on view too...

the fuel pump is on the back of the camshaft,at the rear of the engine,

[Andy]

Wow, that is involved! Good luck, that's not a job I'd like to take on.

Is it just the photo or is the front passenger side disc a bit worn?

[art b]

Quoting: Andy

Is it just the photo or is the front passenger side disc a bit worn?

least of my feckin worries if it is....

[art b]

for those of you that ive bored with this mini adventuer

its all done and running fine...

Heres a quick rundown of it...

remove glow plugs,Turn engine to tdc. Lock camshaft with g clamp and wooden wedges...



mark and fix cambelt to camshaft pully...



remove old water pump, them aquire new one with to many teeth and to big...so remove pump pulley and replace with original one... handy for reusing the timing marks[in red nail varnish]

here you can see the different cogs, and new pump fitted,

start replacing  various covers fans pulleys,brackets etc..


pop the rest back together, check the timing and start her up [ with heart in mouth] change coolant ,oil filter, pop wheels back on and of for a test drive,

return home strut around the garden pleased as fcuk ...and think about the £800 bucks ive saved... although  I did spend 40 quid in total....

[philoldsmobile]

always satisfying when you save plenty of wedge! nice one mr B

If it weren't for the ridiculous cost of the special (and sadly essential) tools, i'd do my own cam belt. as it is, its off to swindon soon for it to be done soon.

[Cunning Plan]

You've got some talent buddy, that's not an easy job!

[Andy]

Quoting: art b

return home strut around the garden pleased as fcuk

Proper job!

Hope you removed the wooden chocks. Had a guy at our meet who was working on his engine and for some reason managed to put his sump back on with a lump of wood in the bottom...

[art b]

i dunno about talent just determination patience and methodical working,

its mostly a case of taking things apart, then putting them back together,

i was lucky that i could leave the car of the road for a few days, but i suppose it my have dragged on in a garage..
if i could have found one to tackle it straight away... audi npton are stil trying to figure why the pump was different,



i had some special tools ..the wooden wedges and g clamps...

you do need vag com to seet the fuel pump timing if the camshaft moves as the dwesiel pump is on the back of the camshaft...

heres another couple of pics

old pump removed, the bearing was fooked...




a pic of the general mayhem.....

[Cunning Plan]

Did you have any bolts left over? I always have stuff left over

[Andy]

Quoting: Cunning Plan

Did you have any bolts left over? I always have stuff left over

A friend of mine called Sally was fixing her XR2 and had a friend round to help remove and replace the gearbox. They fitted it all back together and were both happy when they found a box of bolts, neither of them knew where they went. He then promptly named them 'wee bolts' as you shout 'wee' when you fling them into the garages equivianlent of a man drawer.

About a week later the gearbox fell out.

[philoldsmobile]

Can't exactly get around the special tools issue with mine..

the indispensable special tools i need to do mine are a special DTI that screws into no1 spark plug hole to find TDC, and a set of cam locks (cnc machined blocks that lock the cam in position by fitting over the lobe and bolting into the head), as the cams have no keyway on them.

the cam pulleys are on a taper, you crack the taper so the pulleys can rotate relative to the shafts, set the tension with the pulleys free, then lock them into place. using the dial gauge ensures a perfect TDC, and tightening the pulleys after the belt tension is applied ensures perfect cam timing (otherwise the cams would move slightly as belt tension is applied)

It's pretty normal stuff for engines approaching 90 - 100 bhp per litre, things need to be precise, or you loose power very quickly. you should see how things get even more tricky when you get an engine like the Mitsubishi MIVEC in an FTO (2 litre with 200BHP at the wheels)

[Andy]

Quoting: philoldsmobile

the indispensable special tools i need to do mine are a special DTI that screws into no1 spark plug hole to find TDC, and a set of cam locks (cnc machined blocks that lock the cam in position by fitting over the lobe and bolting into the head), as the cams have no keyway on them.

the cam pulleys are on a taper, you crack the taper so the pulleys can rotate relative to the shafts, set the tension with the pulleys free, then lock them into place. using the dial gauge ensures a perfect TDC, and tightening the pulleys after the belt tension is applied ensures perfect cam timing (otherwise the cams would move slightly as belt tension is applied)

It's pretty normal stuff for engines approaching 90 - 100 bhp per litre, things need to be precise, or you loose power very quickly. you should see how things get even more tricky when you get an engine like the Mitsubishi MIVEC in an FTO (2 litre with 200BHP at the wheels)

Bloody Itailians make what is already quite an awkward job even harder!

Ford Mondeo Derv, two drills in the fuel pump, jobs a good'un...

[Titsy]

Quoting: Andy

About a week later the gearbox fell out.

[Big Mouse]

Good job Mr B, buggered if I'd tackle that one!

[art b]

Quoting: Big Mouse

Good job Mr B, buggered if I'd tackle that one!

he who dares ...wins rodney.....

[ i had my doubts about it]... .. then i thought ..how hard can it be..?.