is there anyone that knows about polishing and stuff ? (aluminium advice)

Started by Gator, April 25, 2009, 11:00:00 AM

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Gator





look at this nice shiny setup whats the best way to keep it looking like that i guess a clearcoat ? if so which one

or is there another way



F Body

Quoting: Gator
is there anyone that knows about polishing and stuff ?


Well I do have mine own smilie

Wouldn't recommend clear coat lacquer on an engine part, it will start to flake and look crabby

If you want it really shiney it's out with the dremmel and Autosol

Then you'll just have to give it a buff up every week to get the high gloss finish back

Gator

i dont want to have to polish it every week though martin no sir

F Body

Quoting: Gator
i dont want to have to polish it every week though martin no sir


I've used some of that chrome finish paint with a degree of success, although it wasn't on an engine part
It's about 75% as good as chrome but is really shiney


http://www.paintsprays.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=229\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.paintsprays.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=229

Gator

it doesnt have to be super shiny i quite like the aly look i just want to stop it oxiding really

HardRockCamaro

You might get away with powdercoat laquer...

It's tougher and should take up to 150(?) degrees or so as it bakes at 170...


Gator

cheers Andy eastwood to a clearcoat that goes to 150c jobs a goodun

Rocky

You can paint engines with 2k but unsure of clearing bare alloy due to the powder forming under the clear like on alloy wheels


Rocky

looks ok, not sure what it will look like after a while though

F Body

Quoting: Rocky
not sure what it will look like after a while though


If it's anything like the silver paint that I lacquered on my Honda's headstock, it will craze and discolour from the engine heat

Rocky


Andy

Ally is a really difficult material to keep clean as it oxideds really quickly, it is also difficult to laquer or paint because it produces its own oily deposit on top after you've polished or scotch brighted it. (Run your hand across a piece of ally thats be rubbed up)

The only surface treatment I know of that will preserve a finish to any level is anodising it. This is the treatment those colourful adaptors on NOS and fuel kits get. It is literally a surface treatment which with a dye can colour the top if the material.

It ain't cheap for a good job, and often those people who do good jobs have to take on a minimum quantity, though we've done it at work for one of prototypes walking in the back door with a bit of cash.

Am struggling to remember much else from my college work...

Gator

aye its a pain in the arse

i am getting the timing cover powdered black and leaving the pump natural

art b

do frosts do one of their plating kits that colour....?

you can do lots of items....
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

FUBAR

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Quoting: Andy
It ain't cheap for a good job, and often those people who do good jobs have to take on a minimum quantity


If you're thinking of anodising, your could try looking into the Paintballing community... as some of their suppliers get very good at doing some detailled anodising work...


(My Old Marker)

not sure if they take on custom stuff but it'd probably be worth asking.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...


FUBAR

is 120 deg C high enough?

They alse sell one called "Detail Grey" which is a bit darker for rough cast stuff, I painted the body of my alternator with it when rebuilding it earlier this year.

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...