Rear Window repairs

Started by Jamieg285, October 19, 2010, 04:00:38 AM

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Jamieg285

Now onto day 4, I thought I'd post up some progress pics.

There's been a leak that fills the boots whenever it rains, and deposits a large amount of rust debris.  It's pretty clear that the main culprit was the rear window.  There is also a large patch of rust along the top edge of the inner roof skin, where it has leaked badly in the past.

I didn't have the camera until day 3, so there's no early pics.  The first day was taken up with removing the chrome trim (which had been glued on with urethane ) and getting the glass out.  It's no fun cutting out the butyl/urethane sealant from both sides. I used up about 10 of the long thin stanley blades in the process, but finally at about 4:30pm it was out and I was able to assess the damage.

First impressions were that it wasn't too bad, no obvious holes, but a reasonable scattering of rust patches.  After attacking with scrappers and screw drivers, I opted to remove 3 areas -
1. 2 foot strip along the top edge where the inner/outer roof skins meet, this included going 2 inches deep into the inner skim (to repair the interior trim screw holes),
2. The driver side lower corner and
3. A four inch strip along the drivers lower side.

I started at the top edge and carefully cut the worst out, then using a patch cut from the spares car, trimmed to fit. Everything was going well, until I tried to spot weld it in, only to find there was no gas in the welder  I paused there, and moved to cutting out the next bits.

This is where the pics start:

Top strip cut and replacement ready for welding


Two patches cut out of corner/lower side, with surrounding area treated with Kurust


Top strip welded, grinded and treated



Cancer cut out of the corner


Patches filed and grinded



The side wasn't so bad and cleaned up with the grinder




Rear corner doesn't look too good and needs more investigation




Since then I've cut a bit more away from that rear corner.  It appears to be a 3 panel junction between the outer quarter, the inner wheel house structure and the trunk opening.  The top two layers have rusted and been removed, but the top of the inner structure is toast and it can't be properly repaired unless the rear wing comes off . For now, I've cut a bit more of the channel forward of the corner out, to give access to put a small patch to some semi decent metal, and that will have to do.

More pics and updates to follow after todays exploits.

Roadkill

Epic !

Bravo for taking on such a task.

Cunning Plan

Ah, looks like a classic VW.
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

F Body

Holy Rust Batman, let me know if you need a hand getting anything back together

You might want to cover those speakers up before you get to much grinding dust in them

Jamieg285

Quoting: Roadkill
Bravo for taking on such a task


The sad fact is that I can't afford to get it done professionally. If it's not done now it will soon get so far gone it's not worth saving.

Still, it's given me great confidence.  Apart from proper body work (which I won't do) there's not going to be much that's harder than this now.

Jamieg285

Quoting: F Body
let me know if you need a hand getting anything back together


I've just finished the last of the metal work around the window (pics below), just seam sealer and painting now. While the interior and glass are out, I'm going to have a go at some rear end re-inforcement, running a bar across the wheel arches.  It will help get back some of the rigidity that's lost with the inner structure rusted out.


Quoting: F Body
You might want to cover those speakers up before you get to much grinding dust in them


Speakers are already junk - missing the rubber bit that joins the cone to the frame.  I already have a replacement set, just need to find the time to finish the rear shelf project and mount them. Maybe later this week

Jamieg285

This mornings progress - the last of the patches are now in and treated.

Here is the view of the top of the inner structure that has rusted out.


Tried to get a pic from inside - can see the bottom of yesterday's patches, and the rusted inner support


I've treated the top and just tack welded the patch to it for a little support:



Then filled in the top patches and ground back




And finally the last patch to the side of the rear panel




I'm not so worried about the neatness of the last one, as it gets covered with seam sealer to ensure the water runs past it anyway.

Cunning Plan

Well done dude though, that is not an easy repair!

Keep it going
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Jamieg285

A few more progress pics.  I thought I'd taken more, and need to get some now stuff is all back together...

Rear corner finished and prepped.



Rain doesn't stop play (although I did get soaked trying to put it up on my own )


Seam sealer applied where necessary and 1st layer of primer layed down


Now onto the boot floor - not looking too healthy



Cut out the worst bits (more did need to come out as work progress and the thinner bits colapsed)


Carefully cut matching patches ready for welding



Sub-Project - whilst everything was out, I cut away the rear seat/trunk divider panel and added a brace across the rear arches, with triangulation to the base of the shock mounts.  Should A: make the rear a bit stiffer and B: with the rear seat being fold-down, I can extend the carrying capacity when required



I'll be adding a hinged panel back in, to enclose the rear again, and act as a stop for anything that might fly forward when braking sharply.


More to follow...