Roadkill's 1983 Chevy Z28 - (Work Starts on Page 5)

Started by Roadkill, October 18, 2005, 01:33:36 PM

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Andy

Right, I've put a measuring tape over mine. Can't measure to the bits you're on about, as one ends oily and looks 'delicate', the other is inside the steering box. However, here are some piccies...












Roadkill

Quoting: Andy
the other is inside the steering box


????

That plastic shroud is just loose.  It locates on the P/S return line nut and is there to shield the rag joint from crap.  

The splined joint is under that.

That said I'll compare that pictures to mine and go from there.

Thanks.

F Body

Quoting: Roadkill
That said I'll compare that pictures to mine and go from there.


It doesn't look any different than 4th Gen, if that helps

Roadkill

O.K . . .

I wish I'd have taken some pictures on Friday evening now as it was a bit of a turning point . . .

The steering column issue I'd researched extensively as to why this was different . . . and it definitely seemed different . . .

Anyway.  The shaft is a semi-collapse-able one . . meaning that it kind-of telescopic.  I'd seen no mention of this - only that people were using shafts from Astro Vans as they had better U.J's, no rag joints and were fully collapse-able.

But that was it.

So I planned to make one using a 1"DD / 3/4" DD U.J connected to a stainless rod with a 3/4" DD / 3/4"-30 spline at the box.

Simple, but it meant buying another ~£130 of U.J's . . .

Long story short, cut the crappy factory U.J off, remove shroud, remove telescopic part, cut and recess a new, longer telescopic part, paint.

Fit original rag-joint to box but this time fit a U.J I already had at the other end into the lower, main column.

All sounds fairly easy but It really wasn't.  It took a few hours BUT cost me nothing I didn't already have "in stock"

Plus it mean't progress on Saturday.

So, Saturday.

Column in and connected at both ends.  All steering "hardware" torqued and aligned correctly.  Wheels roughly tracked and P/S oil cooler installed and part-plumbed.

Basically it's all just hanging on me somehow mounting the power-steering pump so I can complete the fluid circuit . . .

Pictures . . .

The oil cooler

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The new / old / new box . . complete with Earl's fittings (another long story)

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/IMAG2739_zps0ef06a84.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

The top of the intermediate connecting to the main column

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/IMAG2740_zps258d3bb3.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

And an under-car shot . . . . rewind this thread about 5 years and you'll see similar pictures to this.



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Cunning Plan

Very, very, VERY nice.



You must be quite proud at this point, if you do not take into consideration the hassle of the steering.
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

Looks mighty mighty fine, but my god those headers are low!

Roadkill

Quoting: Cunning Plan
You must be quite proud at this point, if you do not take into consideration the hassle of the steering.


Yeah, I suppose . . . I must admit with all the problems in the last 18 months it's probably more tainted pride, now.

It's a learning curve at the end of the day.  I've gotta keep reminding myself . . .

Quoting: Andy
but my god those headers are low!


I know.  

One of my next jobs is to make a drawing of the underside profile and wheelbase of the car so I can work out "worst case" scenario speed-bumps.  It's all about working out the combination of lead-in / height ratio.

At this stage I do know that "sleeping policeman" style bumps will be a danger.  I measured some at 80mm high and with no lead-ins, that's higher than my ground clearance !

Roadkill

Just plotted some basic ramp requirements for 100mm, 125mm and 150mm rises.

This is worst case, as I've assumed - for now - that my 70mm clearance effects the whole wheel base (which it doesn't).

The aligned dimensions (top) show where on the wheelbase the strike will occur when moving FROM the right TO the left side.

The bottom right dimension indicates the absolute minimum ramp size I'd need, at that desent, to clear if travelling FROM the left TO the right.

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/GroundClearance_zps16d6d891.png.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

next job on this is to more accurately plot when the ground clearance improves as I suspect that this will improve matters somewhat.


ianjpage

'twas good progress at the weekend - at least the car is now steerable (to some degree), and the wheel is connected to the wheels :p

Just need the 'special' bracketry now!

Will be interesting to see how close it is to the bumps when getting it out of the estate!!!

F Body

Quoting: Roadkill
This is worst case, as I've assumed - for now - that my 70mm clearance effects the whole wheel base (which it doesn't).


Jeeze that's only about 2 3/4"  my Maro often struggles with it's 4 1/2"

"insert CP jokes "

Cunning Plan

Quoting: F Body
"insert CP jokes "




Am I too late?
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Incursus

Quoting: F Body
my Maro often struggles with it's 4 1/2"


Yeah the Mustang is probably around that and most speed bump are a pain in the exhaust pipe.

Pretty sure I did some damage under there over the weekend, while bringing it back from its temporary storage.  Stupidly viscous speed bumps though.

I will take a look one evening...at least it will give me a chance to use my new jack

Cunning Plan

Being as you are a master fabricator, how about making up some protection plates or a skid / belly pan?
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

I do have an advantage over Martyn's and Chris's cars . . . and that is I have MASSES of ground clearance behind the gearbox.  (No exhaust, you see).

This means that although low, the worst case only effects about a 1/3 of the wheelbase so what would ground Chris's Mustang on the rear boxes wouldn't necessarily be an issue for me.

The Camaro is still quite high at the back . . .

Once I've taken some more dimensions I'm hoping they'll paint a more accurate picture.

Quoting: Cunning Plan
Being as you are a master fabricator, how about making up some protection plates or a skid / belly pan?


See -

Quoting: Roadkill On Page 79
We measured the minimum ground clearance at 2 3/4" (70mm). Not sure what to make of that but I already have some unconventional plans if I'm stuck on getting her over speed-bumps . . . .


This'll be an emergency measure.


Incursus

Quoting: Roadkill
and that is I have MASSES of ground clearance behind the gearbox. (No exhaust, you see).


Tis true I normally get hung up near the middle of the car.

Roadkill

Quoting: Cunning Plan
Being as you are a master fabricator


A little master class in bracket making, young grasshopper.



Make a cardboard template . . . Concentrate on the connections for each part before worrying about either the overall shape or joining the two.

Note the masking tape ? - This had been cut up and re-jigged numerous times !

Draw around the template onto some appropriate material (I used an old jig I had sitting around at work made from 6mm plate)

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Always drill your holes first (It's easier) . . .

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/DSC_0010_zps6fd502b6.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

Rough cut with a angle grinder and THIN (1mm) cutting discs.  Outer curves are easy . . inner curves are hard.  I make multiple cuts into inner curves and gradually make it close.

Note the obvious lumps, though.

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/DSC_0011_zpsb9ccd087.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

Next, use a P24 pad on a grinder and work in those outer curves making them nice and even.  Take the heavy burrs off as you go.  Use a standard grinding wheel to nibble away at the inner curves (it'll be difficult to get it perfect).
Then I use decent quality file to radius all the the edges (I like to be able to run my finger around the edge without fear of splinters).  Use a crescent-shaped file to help bring in the inner curves.
Finally I run a P120 pad on a grinder over the two faces to smooth the hole burrs and flatten any marks left by the vice when cutting/drilling.

Compare to original template and correct as necessary.

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/DSC_0012_zpsa9d25c96.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

Wipe over with thinners and paint.



Total time was about 2.5 hours including painting and clearing up.  It's not quick work . . . that's why I prefer to use the laser-cutter when I can !!

Roadkill

Needless to say there is some progress being made.  

Thanks to Ian for assistance as required.

I have a snagging list in the works but the main job is to get this P/S pump fitted . . . finger's crossed for this weekend . . . ?


Roadkill

Quoting: Roadkill
I know I'll definitely need a 10mm I.D / 18mm O.D steel spacer 51mm long doing


Andy - would you have time to get this done tomorrow ?

I know it's short notice but I made better-than-expected progress on the bracket and there's a good chance this could go in on Saturday.

Can be 18-20mm O.D although the I/D needs to clear a 3/8" bolt shoulder (so needs to be 10mm).

I should be good to see you over at Jack's tomorrow . . . doubt I'll be in the Caddy, though.

Andy

Done! Just so happened to be turning some 3/4" 303 so I've just run a 10mm drill up a bit and put a couple of chamfers on it.

Just need to remember to put it in the car!

Roadkill

You, Sir, Are a star.  I will buy you a Coke / Tea / Coffee / etc tomorrow !



ianjpage


Roadkill

I need a second pair of hands at some point to finish getting that pulley on.