Roadkill's 1983 Chevy Z28 - (Work Starts on Page 5)

Started by Roadkill, October 18, 2005, 01:33:36 PM

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Roadkill

Engine (engine side) mounts are now degreased, painted and in the oven.

Sump is degreased, and as been primered . . .

Roadkill

Mounts are finished . . . not brilliant, but not bad.

Sump has been finished - looks

Hopefully it dries quickly so I can take it home tonight and maybe refit.

ianjpage


art b

cant beat, doin ya project stuff at work.....
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Roadkill

Hopefully getting the transmission blasted tomorrow . . .

No progress last night - instead I did stuff on the Jinlun and tidied the garage.


Roadkill

Sump pan is now re-fitted.  As is the knock sensor, oil tube and dipstick.

The motor mounts are going on tomorrow as is, hopefully, the leccy water pump.  Then it'll be onto the transmission . . . . .

Photos to follow . . . .

I also dragged the T56 out of the Caddy's trunk this evening . . . . unless you're considerably stronger than me DO NOT try that at home !

Fek - nearly killed me !  It's a Fook of a lot heavier than the T5, that's for sure.


CJ-IROCZ

I lifted my 700R4 into the back of my work van a couple of months ago and jesus i almost shat myself

ianjpage

so what bits you waiting on for the motor now then?

Roadkill

Quoting: CJ-IROCZ
I lifted my 700R4 into the back of my work van a couple of months ago and jesus i almost shat myself


The old T5 I could carry under one arm . . . the T56 I struggled with a bit.



Quoting: ianjpage
so what bits you waiting on for the motor now then?


I'll be putting the mounts on tonight . . . . after that I'm waiting on the new springs, locks and retainers . . . once I have them I can fit the heads back on, fit the rockers, the intake and valve covers.

That's why I'm turning my attention to the transmission as I'm running out of jobs on the motor.


ianjpage

Quoting: Roadkill

I'll be putting the mounts on tonight . . . . after that I'm waiting on the new springs, locks and retainers . . . once I have them I can fit the heads back on, fit the rockers, the intake and valve covers.

That's why I'm turning my attention to the transmission as I'm running out of jobs on the motor.


cool not much really then considering!

Titsy

Information as requested:



This engine is equipped with a one-piece, lip type seal mounted in a separate seal retainer. Seal replacement requires removal of the transmission.

1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove transmission, clutch assembly and flywheel, as equipped.
2. Pry seal from retainer, inserting screwdriver in notches provided in seal retainer, Fig. 16.
3. Lubricate replacement seal with engine oil, then mount seal on tool No. J-35621, or equivalent, Fig. 17.
4. Mount tool on rear of crankshaft, tightening screws snugly to ensure seal will be installed squarely on crankshaft.
5. Tighten wing nut on tool until it bottoms, then remove tool from crankshaft.
6. Reverse remaining procedure to complete installation.

Roadkill

Quoting: Titsy
Information as requested:


Murky Buckets.

F Body

Quoting: Titsy
Information as requested:



That looks a bit testical

Roadkill

O.K - Time for some piccy's.

The engine with sump fitted (duuh) - taken a couple of nights back :



The Trans, masked up and ready for blasting :



The trans, back from blasting :



The Engine as she sits, now.  Water pump housing repaired and Meziere fitted, engine mount boss has been ground back level after repair and is holding just fine under the same torque as the rest of the mount-bolts.  Mounts are obviously re-fitted, too.

The GM performance manifold is just sitting on top so I can start to get a "feel" for how tall this sucker's gonna be :



Attention is turning towards the trans, now.  I also had the power steering pump blasted yesterday, too.  Both parts turned out good but it was raining hard and the sand did stick to the wet parts, making my job of paint-prep a little more time consuming.

Fieldy


CJ-IROCZ


Roadkill

Cheers, matey.

I had the T56 apart yesterday . . . I took some piccy's, too - it looks cool in there.  

The gearbox looks quite literally as good as new inside - there's not even wear marks on the shaft-end bearings and all the gears look fresh and sharp (none ground or missing in other words).

The ATF in it, however, was rank.  It's all been drained out, ready for fresh to be added once it's insitu.

Quick thanks to Ian for supplying the extra pair of hands required when I re-assembled the front cover.



Todays job is getting the gearbox brushed down, degreased and into primer - ready for top coat (as soon as I can afford the paint !)

Also I've got some random brackets to paint and the brake booster was never 100% finished so that'll be done soon, too.

ianjpage

Quoting: Roadkill
I took some piccy's, too - it looks cool in there.



FUBAR

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: Roadkill
Todays job is getting the gearbox brushed down, degreased and into primer - ready for top coat (as soon as I can afford the paint !)


Done.  It's had a coat of red oxide, then a coat of U-Pol (to smooth the surface just a little) then another coat of red oxide.

It turned out good, albeit it got a little fumey in the garage . . .

Pics will follow tomorrow.

Roadkill

Oh, quick "upz" to the Titmiester for sucessfully identifying the CAGS (Computer Aided Gear Selection) control on the T56.  (EDIT - this can clearly be seen on the picture, above, showing the 'box after blasting).

This solenoid (sp) has been removed because, it seems, without a constant feed, I'd be unable to shift into higher gears !

Hell, that actuator was bloody heavy ! - I'm glad it's gone . . . I've just got a hole to fill, now, under the shifter.



The other minor issue will be the speed sensor . . . The T5 had a gear that drove a cable to the speedo . . . The T56 uses a "gear" and sensor and those funny wire thingys.


55starchief

Might be able to help you there, i have a SPA Design 3.5" Tach with sequential shift lights and digital speedo. Was going to use it on the Transam but things have changed and its probably going to end up on ebay, Looking for around £200, but its worth it as its pretty trick

http://www.mkb.cc/forum/index.php?action=downloadfile&topic=5758&upfile=123674&sub=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://www.mkb.cc/forum/index.php?action=downloadfile&topic=5758&upfile=123674&sub=1\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

Titsy

Quoting: Roadkill
Oh, quick "upz" to the Titmiester for sucessfully identifying the CAGS (Computer Aided Gear Selection) control on the T56.


Err not quite....

If you remember, I said it locks out 2nd and 3rd, forcing a 1st to 4th shift... And we couldn't quite see how it worked in the position.... Well that's because it wasn't the CAGS solenoid, it was the Reverse lockout solenoid... Now i'm guessing you're going to want to remove this anyway as you have no control over it. But this was a safegaurd from lunching the box as there is no reverse syncro... it stopped you sellecting reverse above so many revs or if you were moving...

See the diagram for the locations of the solenoids...



I'm guessing that either the CAGS solenoid wasn't fitted to this box or you removed it already as I see a space on your box... Is that a through hole or hasn't it been cut?

Titsy

Quoting: 55starchief
Might be able to help you there, i have a SPA Design 3.5" Tach with sequential shift lights and digital speedo. Was going to use it on the Transam but things have changed and its probably going to end up on ebay, Looking for around £200, but its worth it as its pretty trick


That could be a good option Dean.... What's the part number G-Unit?

Titsy

Here are the numbers Deano:

12101899 88987978 = Speedo (VSS) Connector
12085485 = back up lamp connector
12101857 = Reverse Lockout solenoid

I haven't got a supplyer yet...

Apparently each one comes with 12" of wire, So I'll have to splice them...

Some other guys have wired the reverse lockout to a switch on hurtst T-Handles.... not sure of the benefits myself...