Roadkill's 1983 Chevy Z28 - (Work Starts on Page 5)

Started by Roadkill, October 18, 2005, 01:33:36 PM

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Roadkill

Having now given up on getting the laser-cutting done I need at work, I've now found a local company who've quoted to cut the bits I need to get the Camaro back on her wheels.

Price is good, I just need to finish one of the designs and run a piece of stainless over to them as they've given me a silly-cheap deal if I supply the material.

I really am hoping, if nothing else, to get her back on her wheels before the end of the year . . . .

ianjpage

Oh wow they really being crap and the workshop then :(

least you got somewhere local then...

Roadkill

Quote from: Roadkill on October 23, 2015, 03:59:40 PMI really am hoping, if nothing else, to get her back on her wheels before the end of the year . . . .

:rolleyes:

I should know better . . . .

I'm still waiting for the bits mentioned above to be done but it "should be this week".

On a separate note I dropped the two harness points off to be stiffened this morning and also the clutch pedal that needs to be modified (should make for faster gear changes).

I'm hoping to have everything back within the next week or so so I can press on . . . .

But, again, :rolleyes:

Roadkill

Quote from: Roadkill on February 03, 2016, 09:36:09 AMOn a separate note I dropped the two harness points off to be stiffened this morning and also the clutch pedal that needs to be modified (should make for faster gear changes).

BOOM !

Progress ! :lol:



Pedal modified, stiffeners added to harness points.  :up:
Will grab a spare few minutes to tidy the welds up and get some paint on them . . . may even look at "the list" again, to see where we are . . . :sofa:

Cunning Plan

1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

Picked up the stainless flanges for the "next generation" exhaust. 

Checked and all good . . . need to remind myself what I intended to do so am waiting for a dry weekend day for that so I can crawl under and have a lookie.

Will check my paint stocks so I can linish and generally clean up the harness mounting points and clutch pedal before re-installing.

Not enough time . . . . :smirk:

Roadkill

#2631
Reminded myself what's going on under the Camaro last night.  Also re-painted the clutch pedal so it'll be ready to re-install.

So list updated again :

* Buy / Replace battery
* Buy / install (exterior) battery kill switch
* Remove existing exhaust system (long story - I think I've explained ?)
* Measure up for new pipes / design new stubby pipes
* Buy / make remaining bits needed for exhaust (bends, straights & flanges)
* TiG together and install
* Fit Sensors to exhaust, run wiring inside of car
* Install both controllers inside car in accessible position, wire up
* Remove D/S A-pillar cover, test fit new triple-pod pillar, test fit gauges
* Install 2 x A/F gauges, 1 x vac gauge to pods, run lines, install pillar
* Replace manual fuel pressure gauge under bonnet with take-off
* Install fuel pressure gauge in car, run lines to take-off and wire up
* Remove clutch pedal, mark up for cutting (it's never been right)
* cut/weld clutch pedal, paint and replace
* Remove rear harness points
* Design and make strengthened harness points
* Paint and replace
* Trim (and cap) bolts protruding on the underside of car (under seats)
* POR15 missed areas under wheel arches
* Front wheel liners (what to do) 
* Repair hood (I'll need to have a strengthening plate made, too)
* Respray hood (got the paint already)
* Investigate gauges (some behave oddly)

. . . . . Basically concentrate on getting the clutch pedal in and the harness points finished.  Also work on getting the exhaust sorted and TiG'ed.

That's all pretty simple and I *plan* to do that before easter, leaving the last few jobs to do in - hopefully - better weather.

:chiny:

Roadkill

#2632
Got the clutch pedal all finished and ready to go back in last night . . . Hopefully will re-fit this weekend.



Ironically, the welding is better now than it was on the original  . . . . that makes me happy as the new clutch is HEAVY !



Just to put it into perspective, I've had around 2" cut off the length of the pedal and still think it's going to be proud of all the others . . . It baffles me how the yanks thought having a clutch that you could operate with your knee (almost) was O.K ???



Also made up a jig for the collector flange welding . . . Not sure if it's normal but the flanges are both rotated on the back of the headers by about 5* . . . . as such, it was pretty critical that these were welded in the right place.
The holes are drilled for the sensor bosses.
All parts were dropped off this morning for "Stage 1" of the welding process (Stage 1 will convert 5 pieces into 2 on each side, so I can get the final fit spot-on).

Tonight's job is cleaning up the modified harness points and getting some paint on them . . . . again, I'm hoping to re-fit these this weekend.

:up:

Roadkill

The exhaust bits have been TiG'ed (to "stage 1"), I just need to pick them up.  :P

I didn't get the harness brackets back on (opting to work on other things) but here's a little photo, just to prove they're done.

:up:


Cunning Plan

1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

O.K, so with the nice weather comes more time to get stuff done - albeit not much - but baby steps are better than no steps.

I got the clutch pedal re-fitted over the weekend (it was shortened and re-angled as it stood massively proud of the other pedals - bravo, GM).  The pedal is now flush with the brake pedal so appears a million times better . . . I haven't tested it running but it feels SO MUCH better under foot, switching between pedals is as it should be and the travel shouldn't have been effected.

No pictures but I'm tentatively going to call that one done.

I also got the (previously modified and painted) harness points back in and refitted.  These are much more rigid so I'm happy.

Again, no pics but that's another off the list.

I've also, off-and-on, been doing bits to the exhaust stubs . . . they're now cut, and assembled on a jig which I'll be taking to get TiG'ed later today. 
Once I have them back they can go on, the sensors be fitted and she can finally go back on all 4 wheels (!!!!!!!!!!)


Roadkill

Titsy -

Sensor length = 85mm
Cable length = 610mm
Connector length = 60mm

5-Wire

0 258 007 057

418082 12

982 / H







Ideally need the cable length 800mm at least

:up:

Titsy

Datasheet for reference:
http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/media/catalog_resources/Lambda_Sensor_LSU_42_Datasheet_51_en_2779111435pdf.pdf

I'ts an Innovate system right? so does it not have a cable from the sensor to the unit as follows, and can you not feed the cable to the logger through the panel the other way and have the connector outside the car? these connectors are meant to survive that type for environment and are fully sealed.

https://tunertools.com/prodimages/large/IN-3897-1.jpg


Roadkill

Yes, the connector will pass through but it'll leave the chunky connector union in a pretty tight space under the brake booster.

I'd need to check - it's probably do-able but definitely not ideal.

:chiny:

Titsy

The link cable looks pretty long, can it not be routed to a better spot?

Roadkill

#2640
The issue will be the length of the cable the sensor end.  The firewall is pretty packed now so the points where we went through were more necessity then choice.

The problem is, ideally, I need to go through where the pedal box is.  If I go either side the cable isn't long enough (assuming I keep that big connector in the car).

The chunky connector can be outside but, at best, it'll be right over the exhaust header and crammed under the steering column, with no real way of securing it.

******

Obviously, from reading the above posts, I managed to bully the workshop into TiG'ing up the exhaust stubs there and then so I could re-fit them last night.

Pic :



I've ordered some heat wrap to go around the stubs . . . I purposely angled them up to maximise ground clearance but the trade-off was obviously that they're now close to the floor pan.

Also a pic of the harness points re-fixed.



The pedals :



This view goes to show how stupid the original lay-out was . . . bare in mind the clutch pedal in stock form protruded 75mm further than it does now !


Titsy


Roadkill

Looks the same.  The limited info reads the same and the cable should be ideal.

Have emailed their technical support dept . . . Fingers crossed.

Ta.  :up:

Roadkill

Well, clearly their tech support are sh!t as they haven't bothered responding.

:pass:

:chiny:


FUBAR

Exhaust is nicely done m8, that is going to be LOUD!!
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quote from: Titsy on May 25, 2016, 08:22:37 AM
Try Bosch instead...

That was my thinking but they've got so many different sites . . . I've found an email for their automotive side but it's not specifically a technical dept.

I'll ping them an email today and see what comes back.

One thing I'm pretty sure of though is that the longer sensor you found should work . . . . the ***only*** possible difference I can see is the number of holes in the end of the sensor itself . . . . on doing some research this controls the heat exposure to the sensor . . . more holes, more heat, less holes, more shielding . . . . 

On further reading, one of the codes the Innovate kit likes to throw is "Code 8" which relates to the sensor over-heating . . . . . so it's obviously pretty sensitive, meaning it's worth being conscious of it.

:chiny:

Roadkill

Quote from: FUBAR on May 25, 2016, 12:33:45 PM
Exhaust is nicely done m8, that is going to be LOUD!!

Maybe.  Maybe not.

The "original" gathered gases (and noise) from both heads (so 350 cubic inches worth of engine) and dumped it out the side.

The stubbies will each handle 1/2 the amount so it'll be more like two 3-litre engines . . . plus they're under the car and pointing to the road so that'll deflect the noise immediately meaning it's already - theoretically - lost some force before it gets to your ears.

I don't expect it to be louder, but I think it'll be prone to higher-pitched noises / "raspy-ness"

Titsy

The contact details on the data sheet for the sensor you have are as follows:
Europe: Bosch Engineering GmbH Motorsport Robert-Bosch-Allee 1 74232 Abstatt Germany Tel.: +49 7062 911 9101 Fax: +49 7062 911 79104 motorsport@bosch.com www.bosch-motorsport.de

Try them and tell them what your after and what  you have currently.

Roadkill

Hmm, seems the Curse of the Camaro is still present :

"Hi Mr Witham,

Thank you for your email.

Unfortunately we don't have a similar lambda sensor with a longer cable. This particular sensor is quite specific and only fits a Seat Leon and Toledo with AUQ engine codes between 2000-2004.

Apologies.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards"


:chiny: