Roadkill's 1983 Chevy Z28 - (Work Starts on Page 5)

[Titsy]

Maybe ask about extending the wires yourself and what wire is appropriate for the job. Just double check that it won't have any consequences for the operation and accuracy of the sensor...

At least 'the Bosch' came back to you...

[Roadkill]

I'm pretty sure Bosch would never suggest that cutting and splicing one of their sensors would be O.K so I didn't ask.

I did do a load of reading that suggests that it's perfectly fine and normal. 

There seems to be some difference of opinion on whether to solder or crimp the connections but I haven't found anywhere that suggests "special" wire - just standard (non-solid core) wire of a matching gauge.

[Roadkill]

O.K, so - with no other option - I decided to extend the Lambda sensor cables. 

I wanted to minimise the extension so opted for 6" (150mm) overall.  I also extended both sensor cables as on hindsight, although the one on the R/H/S wasn't too bad, it wasn't ideal.

I'm not au fait when it comes to electrical stuff so did my best.  I allowed 1/2" overlap either end, twisted them and melted in solder.  It seemed to take nicely and by the second or third connection I was making a pretty neat job of it. (Go me !).

There's probably an easier way of doing this but my crude set up did the job.  :)





After making the connections, I tightly wrapped each one in insulating tape, pulled the original cable wrap back and added heat-shrink to the end which will mostly be inside the car (this overlapped the original wrap by 30mm or so).

This is a pic to compare the first modified one to the original (the second was done the following evening).



I did re-fit the exhaust stubs but now have different bolts (socket heads) as the old hex-headed ones interfered with the pipe slightly.

The plan is to remove the stubs, wrap them in exhaust heat wrap, secure wrap, re-fit stubs using new bolts, fit sensors and run cables into car.

Once at this stage internal connections are straight-forward and she can go back down on 4 wheels (finally).

[ianjpage]

Once at this stage internal connections are straight-forward and she can go back down on 4 wheels (finally).

:up: been on stands for a lil while now!

[Incursus]

Looks good to me..make a sparky out of you yet.. 😉

[Titsy]

Hmm, I would have put heat shrink over the joints. Water get's into everything under a car, and a bit of corrosion over time could throw the measurements out...

[Roadkill]

I hear what you're saying but I didn't use heat shrink there for three reasons :

1) I wasn't sure, that with the thickness of the heat shrink, that the main sleeve would fit back over (insulation tape is easier to remove / alter).
2) The main sleeve is sealed at the sensor end (no water in there), my new piece of heat shrink over-laps the original sleeve tightly so shouldn't let water in (the other end is inside the car so that shouldn't be an issue).
3) I didn't have any heat shrink that size.  :tongue:

[Roadkill]

My guv'nor said that we could all go home if we wanted to watch the match yesterday afternoon . . . . which was a genuine surprise as I wasn't aware there was a match on (or who was playing for that matter) but turns out England was playing which meant I got to go home earlier and get a couple of hours' work done on the Camaro - Goooooooo, sports team !!! (only funny if you've seen the Lego movie).

Got the exhaust stubs removed and the wrap installed (yes, Ryan, soaking it does make it easier - thanks).  It was bloody awkward and I'm glad I opted to remove them from the car.  The wrap is retained at each end with stainless jubilee clips (the ones supplied with the wrap are crap - NEVER bother using them).
Eagle-eyed viewers may note that one wrap stops slightly shorter than the other - yes, I ran out but not even my OCD demanded it be put right (we're talking a mere 3" too short . . . oo-er)



So, still wet, they went back on, complete with new bolts (the socket-headed ones were easier to work with so I'm glad I got these).  Sensors were fitted and cables run and secured so not to come in contact with the exhaust.





I spent a few minutes connecting everything up but nothing's tested yet.  The chunky connectors - now the cables have been extended - are perfectly positioned albeit the connecting cable is about 6-foot long and just coiled up under the dash !!!

Everything's pretty-much still hidden out of the way, though and it's still pretty neat so I'm happy.



I'm probably jumping the gun a bit but I plan to drop her back on her wheels either tonight or tomorrow and charge the battery.

Hopefully before the end of the weekend I'll have her running and see how things lie.  :chiny:

The "list" is now as follows :

* POR15 missed areas under wheel arches
* Front wheel liners (what to do ? - will probably just replace)
* Repair hood (I'll need to have a strengthening plate made, too, probably)
* Respray hood (got the paint already)
* Investigate gauges (some behave oddly) / test "newly" fitted ones

[Roadkill]

Got the wheel liners cleaned up and re-fitted, then dropped the Camaro back on her wheels Friday night (didn't do much else).

Still need to re-fit the cover that protects the fuel filler, though (couldn't get under to do this at the time).



Went out on Saturday and put the battery on charge . . . . . . 8 hours later we went out but the battery still wasn't charged (I was getting worried).  Took it off charge, put it back on Sunday.

It finally finished charging around lunchtime but I was busy doing other bits so got back to it around 6pm (just before it starting pi$$ing down !!).

My neighbour kindly offered to help me get the bonnet off so I could quickly check everything over before trying to start her . . .

All looked O.K, so gave the key a turn . . . :sofa:

She started good considering, settled down pretty quick and idled off choke without issues.

Initial thoughts are there may be something iffy going on with the right bank . . . the LH A/F gauge is sitting steady (on idle) around 14.3 . . . but the RH A/F gauge is fluctuating wildly from 14-18.  May have a cylinder down or rocker adjustment off (??)

Not really thought anymore about it.  :chiny:

The next job is to have a big re-shuffle to get the Caddy out of the garage and the Camaro in (so I can remove the hood to repair it) . . . .

<<EDIT>>

I'm also fitting lanyard to the front 2 bonnet pins so I don't get a repeat performance of "The flying bonnet in F-major"  :smirk:

[Roadkill]

Not much of an update but I gave the Camaro a pretty good clean before putting her in the garage . . . also checked over everything (lights, wipers, horn etc . . . ) all working fine but I do have an issue with the door poppers which'll need investigation.

:chiny:

The irregular reading from the RH cylinder bank I think may be from the stubby exhausts being a tad short (which I couldn't avoid) . . . the reading is more settled at slightly higher RPM but erratic at idle (around 540 RPM) . . . my guess is that at low idle, clean air is being drawn up into the pipe enough to alter the readings.   I'll run the engine at a steady higher RPM (around 1000 RPM) and see what I'm getting.

Going to hop off the Camaro for a week or so as I have other jobs that are currently more pressing.

Was nice to drive her though . . . . even if only for a few yards !

:up:

[ianjpage]

I do have an issue with the door poppers which'll need investigation.

What's up with them??

[Roadkill]

On pressing the button on the remote you can hear the D/S relay clicking but it's not firing the solenoid . . . . on the P/S I can't even hear the relay clicking - nothing.

Pushing the buttons "hidden" on the rear does nothing, either (I can't hear the relays but am obviously further away).

:pass:

[ianjpage]

On pressing the button on the remote you can hear the D/S relay clicking but it's not firing the solenoid . . . . on the P/S I can't even hear the relay clicking - nothing.

Pushing the buttons "hidden" on the rear does nothing, either (I can't hear the relays but am obviously further away).

:pass:

Hmm, guess the battery is all OK as it started....only thing might be worth checking is the fuses as there is a fuse between the relay and the solenoid (i think!)

[Roadkill]

Checked all the fuses I could find, including inline ones - all good.

Battery was freshly charged.

[ianjpage]

Checked all the fuses I could find, including inline ones - all good.

Battery was freshly charged.

I think the ones for the poppers come from one of the 2 small fuse blocks on the firewall in teh passenger footwell...so if they good then very odd, don't think there any more, the system is obviously working to an extent if you can hear the relay firing, it sounds like the solenoid isn't getting power...which is controlled by the relay and the fuses...so if fuse OK and relay clicking then very odd one....might mean pulling a door card off and seeing if you get 12v at the solenoid +ve connector