I'm a MONDEO MAN, now !!!

Started by Roadkill, February 22, 2011, 02:15:20 PM

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Roadkill

Learn something new everyday . . . .

Cunning Plan

Quoting: Roadkill
I assumed it'd be worse as the car is on "choke" longer . . . ?


For the initial start up until the engine is at normal temperature, I guess it would be worse, but for the rest of the journey it should improve due to the cooler, denser air.

Quoting: Andy
I put it down to the intercooler being a LOT more effective with cold air hitting it as opposed to it be relatively warm all the time under the bonnet.




Quoting: Andy
Diesels don't have a choke, they just run like a bag of shit for 10 mins after start up.  




Some old Diesels used to. My 87' VW T3 1.6D came with a choke. I assumed they increased the fuelling by moving a valve on the pump and forcing the engine to run rich.

Modern Diesels run a 'cold strategy' controlled by the ECU, much like the Petrol engines. This would be a change in fuelling and air quantity. Some even change the engine timing.
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

Yeah, some of the original diesels did, but even my Mk 2 didn't have one, and that didn't have an ecu. I put it down to there being no advantage of choking off the diesel as its not an explosive combustion but a compressive one. Add to that the diesel is injected directly into the cylinder!

Cunning Plan

Quoting: Andy
Yeah, some of the original diesels did, but even my Mk 2 didn't have one, and that didn't have an ecu. I put it down to there being no advantage of choking off the diesel as its not an explosive combustion but a compressive one. Add to that the diesel is injected directly into the cylinder!


Just thought about the differences with Diesel and Petrol.

We are forgetting the glow-plugs!



They warm the cylinder enough for the first start. So, where a choke or cold strategy attempts to run an engine rich or advanced whilst it is cold to allow it to warm up, the glow-plugs just warm the cylinders directly, then as you say, the compression ignition then powers through the rest of the start.  
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

This isn't diesel related but I've noticed my predicted miles to go and MPG figure increase by 20 miles the last week. No change in driving habits I've noticed, in fact I've been using the AC more to clear the screen in the morning. (God bless Ford's Quickclear screen thing!)

I can only think that it's due to the colder air at the moment. Only driving my car really between 6-7 and 8-11pm, so it's always colder.

Anyway, back to the derv talk!

Roadkill

Not needed to use the quick clear, yet.   It's got down to 4*C a few times, though . . .

Incursus

Quoting: Roadkill
Not needed to use the quick clear, yet. It's got down to 4*C a few times, though . . .


Used the HFS twice this week though it was damp, cold and 6am

On the plus side my bodge fix of the passenger side element seems to be holding

Roadkill

Must've been lucky.  I leave for site at 6am 2-4 times a week and have just got in and drove off.  

Andy

How did you fix/bodge the other side element? I can't believe I currently have a car that it works in, I've never seen one completely clear the screen before, either does half or a good version of a barcode!

Roadkill

Mine's spot on.  Works 100% . . . .

<= <smug>


Cunning Plan

My old Mondeo only cleared half the screen, my Pop's Mondeo doesn't work at all, but  the HFS in my gf's Fiesta works, for now......
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Incursus

Check the three fuses, if they're OK then there are two connectors under the windscreen cowl. Give those a check and clean up

Roadkill

DID SOMEONE SAY SERVICING ?

Well and truly got my money's worth out of the front pads - over 36000 miles in my ownership and f**k knows how many before !

Discs were also utterly f**ked and look like the originals.

£18 for pads, £36 for discs.  Not bad.  Was hoping they'd last a little longer, though.



Had a look around while the wheels were off - all looks spot-on . . . no worn lines or boots.  Everything looks good.



To cap it off got both sides done, finished and tools away in an hour !



That groove is not supposed to be there, by the way !



Both discs were like this - almost like a smaller pad was installed at some point ?



Shiny.  (As exciting as it gets on a Diesel Mondeo)


ianjpage

wow they were well adn truly knackered then!

art b

you should get a lot better braking now then....

the ''smaller'' pads must have still been in there when you changed the disc...
how do they compare to the new uns..?
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Cunning Plan

Quoting: art b
the ''smaller'' pads must have still been in there when you changed the disc...
how do they compare to the new uns..?


1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Titsy

Quoting: art b
the ''smaller'' pads must have still been in there when you changed the disc...



That area being shiny suggests that's what you've been braking on recently...

Incursus

Quoting: Titsy
That area being shiny suggests that's what you've been braking on recently...


knowing RK metal on metal for a good 1000 miles

art b

This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Andy

It takes skill to skim your own brake discs

Roadkill

The pads what came out looked like they were once the same but for some reason the inner pads wore like that.

Almost as if the centre section was tougher material . . ?

Funny thing is the brakes were always very good and never made a noise or snatched . . . I was quite shocked to see the discs were that bad as they gave no hint of it . . .

EDIT - I was just about down to the metal tabs on the ends of the brackets so suppose it could've been that that created the groove but, again, with all the driving I do I should've felt that sooner.

Roadkill

Just ordered a new screen washer pump off ebay - £5.99.

My fault the old one died, really . . . I purposely let the water level drop to nothing so I could flush out the tank . . but in priming the totally empty tubes burn't out the old pump !

It obviously didn't have long left and it's an easy swap so I'm not too bothered.



Thinking about it it's the first thing that's actually broken on the car in some manner which isn't a "serviceable" item, as such*



*Unless it's an Alfa, then every part is a seviceable item according to PhilO

Incursus

Had mine just over a year now, done 26000 miles ish though has cost me more than yours

2 new wheels and a wing mirror £134, 2 tyres £170 and the injectors £500..
Around £80 on service consumables.  
= £884

Of course she's earn't me over £5k after fuel expenses and the insurance is literally half what it was last year thanks to Chris Knott.

Not included the original cost of the car either so a profit of around £2.5k

Roadkill

Do you work at one fixed place of work, Chris, or at multiple locations ? (I ask as for mileage allowances you can't claim for travel to a fixed place of work - unless they've changed that in which case I need to put in more )

So I don't get paid to travel to my offices in Leighton Buzzard but do to, say, London, as it's not classed as my fixed place of work.

It's worth triple-checking as my former Director had to pay back over £7000 in falsely claimed mileage when we were audited a few years back !

In the last calendar (not tax) year, my total costs have be £31 service parts, £54 brake parts, £6 washer pump.
She'll need two new rear tyres for the MoT in December @ £45 each, fitted.

Quoting: Incursus
2 tyres £170
- My £45 ones have done 20,000 so far and haven't even worn half way, yet . . . what do you get out of £85 tyres ?

Current mileage is just under 209,000 . . . .

Andy

£45 a tyre?!

Serious? They must be a Chinese brand of some sort or you get a killer deal.

Stuff like brakes and tyres I will spend a premium on. It hurts the bank, but I'd like to know I'm rolling safe. My tyres are circa £90 a corner and are Michellins, I apparently pay a premium as they're 16" but still reasonable on my opinion.

Was reading on pistonheads about some Chinese brand tyres are being sold without E marks and are banned in German.

Might have opened a can here and don't mean to cause offence, would like to know how they react when driving in the wet/other conditions.