I'm a MONDEO MAN, now !!!

Started by Roadkill, February 22, 2011, 02:15:20 PM

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Roadkill

Titsy managed to pull the code "P2263" from the Mondeo . . .

And so begins the vain attempt to preserve the old girl a little longer.

On Monday night I took off and cleaned the EGR valve and then checked the pipes to the Turbo.

The EGR speaks for itself but the pipes underneath (a mix of metal and rubber pipes joining them) looked O.K.

There were drips of oil forming right at the bottom of this pipe but I figure it's just a build up of oil vapour condensed and seeped out the join ?

I wouldn't thought it would've affected the turbo ???

Before :

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/IMAG2567_zpsf900d052.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

After :

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/IMAG2568_zps39bfe107.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

Roadkill

Just found this.  My issues are exactly the same so sounds promising . . .  

http://www.talkford.com/topic/162803-limp-mode-and-p2263-error/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.talkford.com/topic/162803-limp-mode-and-p2263-error/

Incursus

Does yours have an electronic turbo actuator?  Mines vacuum..which is odd as they were on pre 2003 models as far as I can tell

EDIT: I did all these easy fix checks before discovering it was the Injectors, Turbo issues generally produce smoking exhaust (black)

Roadkill

What code was yours showing ?

I'll look at the actuator tonight.  No black smoke (unless you boot it hard when off of limp mode).  

The link above matches my symptoms EXACTLY (even down to turning off the motor at speed and restarting while rolling to clear the fault - done this 6 times already before reading that thread).


Titsy

Quoting: Incursus
I did all these easy fix checks before discovering it was the Injectors, Turbo issues generally produce smoking exhaust (black)


The code is for a turbo boost performance loss. I would have expected a code relating to injectors if that was the case...

Incursus

Quoting: Roadkill
What code was yours showing ?


The second time it was P0251 but then the symptoms were different as well.

1st time I didn't get the code but the symptoms were more like yours, I'm not saying it's your injectors just sharing my experience...at the end of the day it could even be a clogged fuel filter

Titsy

Quoting: Roadkill
Just found this. My issues are exactly the same so sounds promising . . .  

http://www.talkford.com/topic/162803-limp-mode-and-p2263-error/
\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.talkford.com/topic/162803-limp-mode-and-p2263-error/


This does look promising... Worth checking given the number of miles you've done it's entirely possible you've dislodged one of the wires with vibration. NB, the look to be welded not soldered, which is probably why the guy had to clean the pads back to copper to solder it.

Roadkill

If I take this part off (and there's an issue) can someone (more skilled with an iron) sort it for me ?

The soldering iron I have in my roll-cab is akin to soldering with a heated cold-chisel, accuracy-wise.

Incursus

Quoting: Roadkill
If I take this part off (and there's an issue) can someone (more skilled with an iron) sort it for me ?

The soldering iron I have in my roll-cab is akin to soldering with a heated cold-chisel, accuracy-wise.


Sure, my iron should be good enough for that kind of work if it can be cleaned back to the copper.

Be interested to see if you have the electronic actuator

Roadkill

I'll have a look tonight but can't risk disabling the car tonight as I need Thursday, maybe Friday.

Cunning Plan

Quoting: Roadkill
After :


WTF did you use to clean that?

1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

Initially a screwdriver . . . then thinners, kitchen roll and finger nails.  

NO man should not have one of these in his arsenal !


Roadkill

Had a look last night (later than expected as it took ages for the motor to cool down enough for me to lay across it !!) . .

It's definitely an electronic actuator.  I took off the C-clip and moved the ram back and forth and it seems free and fairly smooth at the turbo end.

I didn't take the actuator off last night as I couldn't risk disabling her last night.

I'll park her up and remove it tomorrow night . . . .

Roadkill

Didn't attack the Turbo Actuator until last night as I needed her to clock some heavy miles on Monday and Wednesday so -

Anyway.  Got the actuator off (literally a 2-minute job including finding the tools).

Took it apart and surely enough there appears to be at least one broken connection.

Have brought it into work today so am gonna try soldering it on my lunch break.



Fingers crossed . . . .

Andy

That'd be extremely awesome if that's the fault. And what a find! Would be interesting to see how many cars may have been written off due to a similar simple fix like that!


Roadkill

At this stage I must announce that I will NOT be giving up my day job . . . . .

I had two wires with duff connections . . . due to lack of expertise / heavy handedness I managed to break one of the 4mm long wires off completely !!!



Somehow I managed to get it back on . . . roughly . . . here's how it turned out . . .

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/IMAG2609_zpsd778f328.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

I'm not sure if the blob of solder over the right-hand wire will effect it somehow ???



Despite the look of it they do all have solid connections, now . . . and it did take some scrubbing with a needle file to get down to copper.

Will re-fit tonight unless someone tells me that the right-hand wire needs improving.

Incursus

That's what I call a solder bridge

Andy


Roadkill

But it shouldn't affect anything should it ?

I'm thinking thin wire now resembles a bit of rope . . . it won't alter the resistance and affect the signal through the wire/solder blob or something daft like that ???

Titsy

Not pretty, but should be alright... Have you made sure to blast out any debris with a can or air or air line? you don;t want any debris causing a short and blowing up the board...

Andy

It should be fine, as long as there is actually continuity then it'll be ok. As Titsy says, check the board is clean before powering up.

Fault finding with all those smd would be a pain in the arse!

Roadkill

No airline - just puff power - but, yes, I have made sure I've got as much crap out as possible.

I'll re-fit and test tonight.

Fingers crossed !

art b

looks serviceable,



no wonder they are a common fault ...

those connections look designed to fail...
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Cunning Plan

1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)