Finally!

[Cunning Plan]

I do like shiny new hardware!

Quoting: Andy

Hub dust caps... Turns out 2 means two boxes of 5!

Clear description on the sales website then

[Andy]

To be fair when they're $1.95 a throw (box of 5) it's just something to have spare I guess, either that or I whack them up on eBay once I've mullered on or two on!

[Jamieg285]

Looking good.

What's the dimensions of those caps?  If they fit my 2nd gen hubs I would be interested in some.

[Andy]

Hi Jamie,

This is the part here, if its the same which I think it will be you're welcome to a couple.

Will probably sling the rest up on eBay though.

http://www.rockauto.co.uk/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=12528&cc=1035773\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.rockauto.co.uk/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=12528&cc=1035773

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

I thought it would be relativity easy to get the wheel bearings over here

Well, that was your first mistake.  

Never attempt to buy over here what you can easily buy in the states - ESPECIALLY when you have stuff coming over, anyway.  

Those brakes sound like the ones I have on mine but I don't think mine were drilled.

I'll take 2 of those caps as spares if you're planning on selling . . . and that's 2, not 2 boxes.

[Jamieg285]

Quoting: Andy

This is the part here, if its the same which I think it will be you're welcome to a couple.

Yes, they will fit - Camaro 70-92.

[Andy]

You two wanna PM your addresses and I'll fire them over to you?

[Jamieg285]

Only just seen this, PM sent.

Thanks

[Andy]

How to change the Rotors and Callipers on a Third Gen F-Body

This weekends project was to swap over the front rotors, pads and callipers to the new Powerstop brake set up. Although the callipers weren't any bigger than the stock, hopefully the disc may offer a bit more cooling and grab over stock. Also in the change was a complete flush of the brake fluid and upgrade to DOT 5.1.



First step is to jack up and secure the front of the car. Best location for jack is on the rear of the chassis legs from the front subframe. Jack it at the very front and slide a jack stand under the rear section. Do this on both sides and remove the wheels.



Now take a 3/8 allen key and remove the two calliper pins. This may take some force and possibly the blow of a hammer to shock them out. The use of a smaller allen key may also be needed to tap the pin out once it runs out of thread from unwinding it.



Next up is to remove the calliper and set to one side. At this point I PB blasted the flare nut where the flex hose joins the hard brake line. This was because I planned on changing both flex hoses. It also gives it good time to soak in while doing other work. When setting aside the callipers if not replacing the hoses, ensure they are never left hanging only by the flex hose. A great place to tuck them is on the top side of the A-Arm behind the knuckle, or like here, on a spare jack stand.



Now work on the rotor, the first thing to do is to remove the hub cap. This is best started by using a non-standard tool for working on cars, a chisel. Once a gap larger enough to suit a good levering screwdriver has been established, work your way around levering off the hub cap.



Next is to remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut. Use a pair of side cutters to lever the semi straightened pin out, replace with new when refitting.



Its not unusual for the spindle nut to see very loose, on this type of set up the nut should barely be applying any force to the bearings and should really only be there to keep them in place. Unscrew the spindle nut and remove the keyed spacer.



With the spacer removed, now pull out the outer bearing. The whole rotor may now slide forwards, just be careful for damaging the threads on the end of the spindle if it does.



With the spacer and bearing removed, replace the nut back on the end of the spindle and screw on until flush with the end of the spindle. Now pull the rotor forward while carefully dragging it along the spindle, when it stops coming forward, stop and give it a couple of sharp tugs forward and be prepared to catch the rotor. This has now removed the rear hub seal and the inner bearing race.



With all of this removed, its time to start the process of cleaning down and reassembling for the reinstall. First thing is to clean the spindle and area down of old grease, this includes the large diameter at the very base where the inner hub seal locates.





Now with a fresh pot of grease, smear a light coating of grease of the spindle, including the large diameter at the base. Now if you are replacing the bearings, the fun job of packing the new bearings of grease begins. Take a clump of grease in the palm of your left hand, and with the bearing in the other, drag the bearing large tapered side first, through the clump of grease. You need to to this again and again until grease starts pouring through the other end of the race, and you need to do this all the way round.







Once both bearings have been packed it is time to prep the rotor for reinstall. Firstly grease the preinstalled bearing surface on the rotor. It is also a good idea to put some grease on the inside of the hub as well. With that done, flip the rotor onto its studs and dunk the inner bearing and seat it squarely on the tapered bearing surface. Now add some more grease to the back it while also smearing some on the very outer seal lip. Grab the new seal and place a light coating in the 'Y' groove and place this on the rotor roughly level, take a hammer and carefully tap the seal home going round the seal until you hear a definite change in sound.





With the inner bearing now held in, move your rotor to the spindle and slide on being careful not to damage the inner seal on the threads or the lip at the back. Give a firm push on to home the seal on its diameter.







While holding the rotor on with one hand, install the outer bearing onto the spindle, then reinstall the now clean spacer, noting the tang that lines up with the groove in the spindle. Next up is the hub nut, finger tighten this until you start to feel a resistance from the bearings. A tip I was given was use a spanner to nip it up, rotate and then loosen the nut off, do this a couple of times on the last time using your fingers to turn it till it just starts to bite and then loosen till the slot of the castellated nut next lines up with one of the pin holes. At this point I was checking the rotor for end play by giving it a tug back and forth. I finger tightened it till the audible click-clack disappeared.



Once that was sorted and the cotter pin was put in, trimmed and folded back, time to put the bearing dust cap on which was quite a nice rewarding thumping session to seat it.



Put the brake pads in the calliper and grease up with copper slip on the places where it touches the calliper. Also note that on these style callipers the pins that hold it in also touch the pads, so a little dab of copper slip there also helps.



All that is left to do is bleed and add fresh fluid, in this case I moved up to DOT 5.1 fluid from the original DOT 3.

[Cunning Plan]

Mmm shiny!

Great work, keep it coming

[Roadkill]

Pfft.  Gloves.  



Nice work.  

[Andy]

I know gloves and all that, but honestly my hands are f**ked at the moment. Going through the waiting game on the NHS to see a dermatologist as it's getting unbearable to use them at work or doing stuff on cars.

Oh, and brake fluid, in a cut... Jesus Christ. Almost as bad as toothpaste in the eye!

[Roadkill]

I had issues when I was on the mills with the coolant . . . so I know what you mean . . . you're still a pansy, though.  

[Cunning Plan]

I always wear a pair of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-X-PAIRS-OF-BLACK-NYLON-PU-GRIP-Safety-Work-Gloves-Builders-Gardening-Mechanic-/190918573512?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&var=&hash=item2c73a23dc8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-X-PAIRS-OF-BLACK-NYLON-PU-GRIP-Safety-Work-Gloves-Builders-Gardening-Mechanic-/190918573512?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&var=&hash=item2c73a23dc8

For doing anything

I touch myself a lot, so I like my hands to be smooth..........

[Jamieg285]

Quoting: Andy

I know gloves and all that,

Do you use those blue ones a lot?  What material are they?

I too suffer from bad hands and use gloves (when I remember).  I avoided latex as they have a bad rap and went with nitrile, based on other peoples recommendations.

It took me a long time to realise, but these weren't doing me any favours either.  I'm now trying vitrile, which have been recommended if you have problems with nitrile, but not used them enough to know if they are better or not.

Oh, and good work on the brakes

[Andy]

Yeah, those are nitrile, simply because they're apparently harder wearing than Latex ones.

I'll keep an eye out for vitrile ones, although my crate of ten boxes of these gloves arrived yesterday...

[Andy]

Sorry about the poor photo quality, but the lights kept tripping last night in the barn!

Picked this up last night, something for the parts pile to eventually fit. fibre glass 3" cowl hood. Will really need to think about how I'm going to fit this, as at the moment it seems like it going to be hood pins all round which will make it a bit of a ball ache if I'm ever on my own...

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

as at the moment it seems like it going to be hood pins all round which will make it a bit of a ball ache if I'm ever on my own...

Don't know what you mean . . .

You're lucky to find one . . I had to buy a cowl and make mine !

:envy:

[Andy]

This was £100 from a guy in West Drayton who had three made up by Dale at DRE Race Conposites. Had two left and he's sold the other one.

He also has a 5.7 engine for sale as I decided not to go ahead with my other friends one.

[Roadkill]

So he's got another available ?

[Andy]

Nah, this was the last one he had. Three initially made up for one on his car, two spares he put up for sale, I got this one, another guy bought the other.

Got no idea how I'm going to mount the thing. I shall leave it for a winter project to figure that out.

Is yours pinned all around?

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

Is yours pinned all around?

Yes.

But I'm considering going back to hinges on the back for convenience . . . that said it's great to get the hood out of the way when you're working.

I'll bet that hood is a damn lot lighter than mine, too !

[Andy]

Quoting: Roadkill

I'll bet that hood is a damn lot lighter than mine, too !

I can lift it on my own, but its just an awkward size and probably isn't best for it.

What I think I might do is run some ally angle section down the perimeter rib and make a bracket to hinge off of that. Do like the idea of it lifting completely out of the way though

[Big Mouse]

Put it on the hinges but connect t them it with Dzus fasteners; it lifts up for easy access but can be removed completely for full access. Thats how WRE fitted my cowl hood and it was a godsend when I was on my own.

The rest of the hood was fitted with Dzus.

You can make out the Dzus in this pic, I'll try to find some others.

http://s938.photobucket.com/user/raycomer/media/exwheels.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

[Andy]

Ahhh! Brilliant! That's exactly what I was thinking of doing! Cheers!

Btw, off topic, but is that your car up for sale on Eurodragster minus engine and gearbox?