Finally!

[Andy]

Found tonnes of short ones on a bearing website this morning. Rang up one of our suppliers and told him the 6PK bit which he said, 'yep fine,' then the length, he went 'nah, we don't do about 1000'

Ended up ringing eurocar parts, they matched it to a 2404 one, and as its only £17 +vat worth a punt. The old one isnt knackered but I thought might as well change it as I'm doing it. Reading on third gen there's two routings for it, one that avoids the smog pump...

[Roadkill]

I never pay more than £10 for a belt.  That's not bad from Eurocar Parts, though, I suppose . . .

Never tackled de-smogging . . . Can't be hard, though . . .

[Andy]

Balls!

Seems I may have jumped the gun with my alternator conclusion/ issue.

Fitted it this evening with the new belt, everything hunky dory, followed the belt diagram etc.

Started her up expecting to see the volt meter pinned just north of 13v... Nope. Somewhere between 13 and the first division below. Put a meter on the battery, have again 12.3v, put a meter on the output of the alternator and the casing 12.3v. Now either the alternator is duff or I have a short circuit somewhere that's draining the output?! If that's even possible?

Any ideas guys?

[Roadkill]

Electrickery is not my forte, I'm afraid.

I always assume battery or alternator . . . . If it's neither then I give up.

[art b]

is the batt good , it ''may'' be that dragging it down,
i dont know what else is involved on the system tbh...

[Andy]

I guess it could be the battery but it had been on charge for over a week while the alternator was being refurbed. Before I put it back in I had a solid 12.3 across the terminals. With it hooked up and running I still have a solid 12.3. It gets dragged down with the lights getting turned on etc. I need to cover the basics again before I throw this alternator back at them.

[Roadkill]

I thought the battery should be more than that ?

[Andy]

I thought a 12v battery should as standard, have 12v on it. It gets 'overcharged' normally around the 14v mark to make sure the load doesn't lower the battery voltage below 12v. A car battery should be around the 12v figure basically.

[Andy]

Ok, so apart from barely getting above 10 degrees outside, I've just spent the afternoon with the tools under the hood.

I had left the battery in the car and before I started I thought I'd best check the voltage out of circuit. It read 12.8v. That in my opinion is quite a good sign. Its been almost down to zero every night since I put it back in and hasn't died. If anything, seems to have charged a little...

Once in circuit the voltage at the terminals drops to 12.3v. I understand that to be normal, that'll be all the circuits/ecu/alarm taking their feed.

Now I've had a chat with Robin at AutoPontiac and he told me that the alternator plug on the top should have two wires going to it, which mine does. The thick one has a constant 12v feed from the battery. The second less thicker one has an 'ignition on' 12v supply, this being the exciter input.

Now this is where I need some MKB help. *hint hint* Ryan.

I would really appreciate someone with a 3rd gen, turn your ignition on and without starting it, remove the plug from the alternator and checking what the thin wire has on it in terms of voltage. Mine has battery voltage, but I've seen elsewhere it shouldn't be this much.

I need this information just before I bounce the alternator back to the remanufacturer.

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

Ok, so apart from barely getting above 10 degrees outside, I've just spent the afternoon with the tools under the hood.

Pfft.

Try doing handbrake cables in the snow with no jack or axle stands !

Quoting: Andy

I would really appreciate someone with a 3rd gen, turn your ignition on and without starting it, remove the plug from the alternator and checking what the thin wire has on it in terms of voltage. Mine has battery voltage, but I've seen elsewhere it shouldn't be this much.

Would happily volunteer but; firstly my engine is in bits so not even should what it'd say at the moment and, secondly, I doubt mine would say anywhere near what it's supposed to with the set-up it's got.

Fubar's definitely your man.

[Andy]

Well after reading quite a few threads on 3rdgen.org I think I'm just gonna hook it off a fire it back at them. I haven't paid yet, and won't until I get a unit that works. I will this time include a little diagram of the plug socket as I wonder if they haven't just wired up the voltage regulator exciter to the wrong pin out.

Who knows. I know I've got the supplies I'm meant to have.

[Andy]

Got the alternator back, again. Fitted it, again. Done any work, again.

After some digging on the Internet I'm waiting for a phone call back from the remanufactures as there's a possibility they haven't wired it or they've put the wrong rectifier in. There are four pins on the plug and only two on the wiring harness plug. But after reading a bunch of info online there are various options that this comes wired as.

The only good thing is it isn't exactly driving weather, so I'm not too fussed about not being able to take it out.

This weekend will see me looking at constructing a suitable car cover/awning as the condensation in the car isn't getting any better.

[Andy]

Spent all afternoon Saturday working on this alternator, and I can't for love nor money get any voltage out of it.

I'm now left with a predicament, this alternator was sent of for refurbishment, it's come back twice now not working with my car. They insist it works on their test rig, but it won't on my car.

I've just bit the bullet and ordered one from Real Steel which is a brand new unit. Touch wood it's going to plug and play. If it does, what do I do with the other one? Can I simply say you guys have this, it doesn't work I'm not paying £xxx for something that doesn't work?

[Cunning Plan]

Quoting: Andy

If it does, what do I do with the other one? Can I simply say you guys have this, it doesn't work I'm not paying £xxx for something that doesn't work?

Possibly, it might get a bit messy when dealing with 'the boys' who don't understand consumer rights. Totally different when you're in a highstreet shop, but a back-alley alternator place might try and tell you to f-off (even thought you are totally in the right).

How did you pay for it?

[Andy]

This isn't a back alley place by all accounts, don't want to name them, as yet nothings been said, waiting for this other one to turn up.

Bit pissed as I've rung them twice asking them to get the technician to ring me back and twice they haven't. I end up chasing them.

[Andy]

Brand new alternator arrived today, very shiny USA made, hoping it'll work. If it doesn't I'm stumped!

[Cunning Plan]

Fit it now!

[Andy]

Done. Fitted. 14.8v. Happy Andy!

Took it out for a spin, yet again put a massive smile on my face. So very happy to have a working running car!

[Andy]

Proof!

[Roadkill]

Happy days !

Should've got it from the states in the first place

[Andy]

Well funny you should say that, its a brand new USA unit, sold by a company in Uxbridge who sell non-counterfeit Steel. and it was only £90.

Now the battle with this refurb company....

[Cunning Plan]

Quoting: Andy

Done. Fitted. 14.8v. Happy Andy!

[Incursus]

[art b]

good news....

electrickery... is the work of the devil...

[Andy]

Well I reckon these refurbers don't know what the requirements are. I've told them it only has two wire on the multiplug, how there's a constant live plus an exciter supply. They're absolutely adamant it works on their test rig. Either way it doesn't work on my car.

A question for those that have done exhaust work. Does the last rear muffler do anything for the emissions? I was thinking of fabbing up some straight pipes from the rear axle and delete the muffler. I can't get how quiet it is, needs more burble!