Projects - Uber Shed and Square Shed

Started by Roadkill, September 27, 2013, 12:08:45 PM

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Roadkill

Been busy all week . . . will sort out some pics later . . .

art b

This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Roadkill

Quoting: art b - (elsewhere)
is it a bronze age design ...


Just like the garage extension it's fundamentally built on timber posts set in concrete pads.  The garage extension has a concrete base (separate from the frame) and polystyrene and timber over that.  The shed will be much more basic.  The floor will be sat on batons attached to the walls (that are attached to the posts).

This way there's no need for large bases and the build is accelerated.

Anyway.

The site.  The new shed will attach to the garage extension to add stability, reduce costs and materials and speed up build time.

The overall sizes are 4.9m long, 1.4m deep and about 2.25m high.

Four post holes dug :

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Next the three main panels were built inside the conservatory (they just about fitted through the double-doors !)

Temporary bracing was used to ensure the panels were square :

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Once square, they were clad . . .

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And taken outside to be treated to 2 coats of 50/50 creosote substitute and 25,000-mile used diesel oil.

Recycling the "Man" way.  Lovely.  

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One of the panels was screwed to the garage, then a post screwed to it, then a further panel and post attached to that to make up the rear wall.  
The last panel (and another post) was screwed to the middle post of the garage to form the first part of the front wall.

All posts and panels were braced and packed before it got too dark to do any more . . . .

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. . . . .

Roadkill

Next I made up the framework for the next part of the front wall.  At this stage I didn't want it clad as I haven't decided on a door yet so wanted to keep my options open . . . this made making it and fitting it bloody awkward . . . !

But in the end it went in and all the posts were plumbed, the levels checked and diagonal measurements taken to ensure everything was ready for concrete.

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The side wall was made entirely in-situ as all the cladding pieces needed to be angle-cut on the ends (as that wall isn't square - was planned not to be) . . .

Again everything which will see the elements was treated.

Next up was the roof.  38mm particle boards, cut and screwed in place.

This is where it was first thing this morning :

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Since then I've put the underlay on for the roof felt and started re-jigging the guttering . . .

The plan for tomorrow is to get the roof felting finished so it's weather proof.  

Then the floor can go in . . . .

art b

simple but effective ...

the shed looks good too.
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

ianjpage


Cunning Plan

1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

F Body

I can see you building a basement next

Titsy

Quoting: F Body
I can see you building a basement next


Don't give him any ideas...

Roadkill

I have previously considered digging a pit in the garage . . . .

I like my space.

Roadkill

O.K, so as my phone was telling me that Monday to Wednesday this week was going to be torrential down pours I decided that the roof needed to be 100% finished, as did the guttering.

I finished off the guttering on Saturday morning and started the cap sheet in the afternoon . . .

I ran out of clout nails so just had to go back up there last night to finish off.

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The garage extension now half flows onto the shed roof (which flows into its own guttering) and the other half flows into its original, modified, guttering (that then connects with the shed guttering below).  All then goes down and then across and then through a pipe under the garage extension to an existing soak-away.

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And here's the roof.  Just slightly lower than the garage extension to allow me to tuck the cap sheet under the garage roof's overhang.

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Thanks to my Dad and Ian for providing the extra pair of hands when required.

Next stage is to finish off a bit of log-rolling to enlarge a raised flower bed to get rid of the various buckets and piles of earth dotted around the garden . . . . . then the shed's floor . . .

Roadkill

Quoting: Roadkill
Next stage is to finish off a bit of log-rolling to enlarge a raised flower bed to get rid of the various buckets and piles of earth dotted around the garden . . . . .


(Will be finished this evening)

I also won a second-hand set of uPVC french doors off ebay that fit the opening I have in the side exactly.

It'll mean I can get BIG items in and out easily (like the seats from the Caddy when I start the resto) . . also, as they're pre-hung, I won't have to worry about drafts or leaks !!

Should be picking them up next week.


Cunning Plan

Very nicely done dude. You have skill0rz.

Is the roof sloping, or have I missed that bit?
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

Quoting: Cunning Plan
Is the roof sloping, or have I missed that bit?


Yeah, about 15mm rise from front to back.

Quoting: Roadkill
Next stage is to finish off a bit of log-rolling to enlarge a raised flower bed to get rid of the various buckets and piles of earth dotted around the garden . . . . .


Got this bit finished which then enabled me to have a good tidy up and clear some room.

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Next stage was running the wiring.  Using a penned-on-wall sketch provided by Ian I got most of it run Saturday . . . with the final bits, connection and testing Sunday.

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Quoting: Roadkill
. . . . . then the shed's floor . . .


DPM first . . . I wasn't going to bother but for £20 it'd be daft not too.  The ground was swept and any hard or sharp stones hammered in.  Then I sprinkled some sand over the area to further protect the DPM.

After the DPM came 50mm of Polystyrene . . . again, I wasn't going to bother but I'd probably regret it if I didn't . . . .

Then the perimeter framework for the decking . . . . then the decking.

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The floor's all done, now and looking good.

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Next up is the ceiling.  I was going to leave this as just timber but I think condensation will be an issue so it's getting 25mm of polystyrene then a layer of plasterboard.

Then the walls.  Again, 25mm of polystyrene, finished with plasterboard.

I should be picking up the doors this week, too . . . so they'll be fitted as soon as they're available.



Thanks to Ian for the help with the electrics and the extra pair of hands with the floor boards.


art b

i saw this at the weekend ...

and wondered if its one of yours...


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This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Roadkill

I'd need a few more gallons of used engine oil to tackle that, I reckon.  

Cunning Plan

1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)


Cunning Plan

Stop being so bastard tallented at everything

Looks good dude. Man cave!
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

I finished off the little enclosure for the outside sockets earlier . . . They're of a suitable IP rating that they shouldn't need it but they just looked too exposed as they were.

No further progress as yet . . although the insulation for the walls and ceiling should be being delivered today . . . .

art b

on an electrical note...

you dont need to use a junction box if your installing new wiring..
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Roadkill

Quoting: art b
you dont need to use a junction box if your installing new wiring..


Pass.  

It works and I found the boxes "in stock" so they didn't cost anything.

How would you connect the wiring for the switch without one ??

Cunning Plan

Quoting: Roadkill
How would you connect the wiring for the switch without one ??




1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

art b

heres 3 methods...

1
you run your lighting feed to the switch, then up to the fitting,
lives into the switch and neutrals joined into a connecter inside the box,

2
lighting cable to the fitting and a wire down to the switch ,links made in the fitting,

3
what i would have done...

to save running a lighting curciut into the shed...

run a cable from the nearest socket,
into a fused spur used as the as the light switch,
then run up to the light,
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Roadkill

Quoting: art b
to save running a lighting curciut into the shed...


Funny you should say that . . . Both lights and power spur off of the mains as we couldn't get to the lighting ring but managed to get to the mains feed for the sockets in the garage.