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Bulk Buy ?

Started by Roadkill, June 06, 2006, 04:41:00 AM

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Roadkill

(Link thanks to FbF)

http://www.safestrustremover.com/howto.asp\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.safestrustremover.com/default.asp

The stuff looks amazing !



FUBAR

I've got some stuff like that, Its POR stuff in a spray bottle, you just spray it on & leave it.

I decided not to use it on the car... thought it might have dissolved!
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Jamieg285



Not convinced myself.  I'd need to see it working before committing to it.

FUBAR

what do you reckon then... 55 Gallons?.. LOL
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

The POR 15 stuff is the best. Have used it and can say it really does work. All my chassis and inner fenders are painted with it

Roadkill

Quoting: 55starchief
The POR 15 stuff is the best. Have used it and can say it really does work. All my chassis and inner fenders are painted with it


Have you actually looked at the link ?



Quoting: Jamieg285
I'd need to see it working before committing to it.


The "slide show" is very interesting . . .

55starchief

Quoting: Roadkill
Have you actually looked at the link ?


yes

POR 15 make a whole range of products. I have used the paint and the spray rust killer. The rust killer was used onn the inside of the panels where i couldnt get a DA in to remove the rust

Roadkill

Any distributors over here ?

55starchief

Quoting: Roadkill
Any distributors over here ?


What for the POR 15?

If so then yes

http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=55\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=55


Quoting: POR 15
Metal Ready is the ultimate in the relentless fight against rust. It not only dissolves away the rust it also etch primes the clean surface and leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating to prevent further rusting. This amazing liquid is non-toxic, non-flammable and non-corrosive. It can be brushed on, sprayed on with the free trigger head provided or just immerse rusted parts to bring them up like new.


http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8229&frostProductName=Metal%20Ready%20(20oz,%20590ml)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8229&frostProductName=Metal%20Ready%20(20oz,%20590ml)

If so yes frost auto restoration

Roadkill


FUBAR

yeah frosts is where I got the Metal Ready from beware though if you miss the package delivery you have to go to Bedford to get it!
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
beware though if you miss the package delivery you have to go to Bedford to get it!


Oh PhilO . . . . .

Rocky

POR 15 clear doesnt work i have left it on a panel and can watch the rust creaping underneith the paint, and its been on a rust free panel,cant comment on the black as you cant see under it but its worked for me so far (fingers crossed)

55starchief

Quoting: Rocky
POR 15 clear doesnt work i have left it on a panel and can watch the rust creaping underneith the paint, and its been on a rust free panel,cant comment on the black as you cant see under it but its worked for me so far (fingers crossed)


Yup pretty much the same as i have heard. Streetrodder magazine did a test on it and found simaler results with the clear. I have pretty much everything below the body painted with the black and its held up well to constant jacking. Will have to wait and see what its like when the cars used on the road.

I sandblasted everything before spraying the black so it had a real good surface to key into.

Rocky

Same here sand blasting seams to be the only way to truely get rid of it unless you cut it out, the black also seams to make the floors on mine alot stronger.

55starchief

Quoting: Rocky
Same here sand blasting seams to be the only way to truely get rid of it unless you cut it out


Yup, wire brush is ok for loose stuff but try and use a wire wheel and it polishes the rust. At the end of the day the only way to get rid of tin worm is to cut it out and replace with good metal

philoldsmobile

having said that, if a bodge is acceptable in a non visible area, lots of kurust, and P40 fibreglass lasts prettty well..

not permanent, and a nasty bodge in reality, but it does ok, for non structural areas..

when i get round to it the astro roof scabs will be done this way, grind back the rust to good metal, then skim each scab with fibreglass... after thats done, a coat of satin black paint will suffice. Rocky has taken care of the area above the windscreen, so the visible part is a nice smooth spray gun finish satin black..

works for a non visible area like that... welding the roof would be a royal PITA

Gator

but look at the before and after of the bike wheel its taken the rust off and rechromed the wheel without any pitting and all in under 3 hours aparently

nah