Ryan's IROC Thread

Roadkill · June 10, 2009, 03:36:50 AM

If you buy an alternator from a company over here do you get a warranty ?

ianjpage · June 10, 2009, 03:55:58 AM

Quoting: Roadkill

If you buy an alternator from a company over here do you get a warranty ?

Yup indeed you do - think it 12 month - i bought mine for the Camaro from my brother in law who cross matched it for me - ryan - if you struggle to find one in teh UK - gimme a shout and we'll see if he can cross match again

Jamieg285 · June 10, 2009, 07:02:49 AM

Quoting: FUBAR

Any ideas on that?

Sorry no. I've never looked too deep into alternator troubles.

Roadkill · June 10, 2009, 07:21:29 AM

I'd suggest - unfortunately - getting a new one with warranty and seeing what happens to that.

At least if that one f*cks up you're covered.

F Body · June 10, 2009, 07:23:48 AM

Quoting: FUBAR

It died by itself over winter last time, I'd assumed through last of use.

Can't see an alternator dying through lack of use

Was it the rectifyer or windings that gave up last time

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 08:37:55 AM

Quoting: F Body

Was it the rectifyer or windings that gave up last time

I changed all the gubbins at the back of the Alt & it worked fine... so Rectifier...

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 09:01:49 AM

Info Dump. (inc VAT)
GM CS130 Alt
£174 - US Auto (probably Re-manufactured)
£186 - JWR (£25 core charge deductable) Re-manufactured

ianjpage · June 10, 2009, 09:50:23 AM

fyi my one for teh 4th gen was 100 quid...

F Body · June 10, 2009, 12:15:05 PM

Quoting: FUBAR

the Alt & it worked fine... so Rectifier...

Well electrickery isn't my area of expertise, but there is no way an alternator can send too much charge to the rectifier. so the problem is with the rectifier it self or some unlikely wiring issue

Gator · June 10, 2009, 12:34:36 PM

got one for my safari from the US £60 ebay

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 12:41:05 PM

Quoting: F Body

or some unlikely wiring issue

There's not really much wiring for an alternator... big cable goes from back of Alt to +ve battery terminal and is done up tight.

Computer pluggy thing plugs into top of alt.

Done

Titsy · June 10, 2009, 12:47:09 PM

Quoting: FUBAR

£174 - US Auto (probably Re-manufactured)
£186 - JWR (£25 core charge deductable) Re-manufactured

you can get an ACDelco one from Rock Auto for £117 delivered, and that's not taking into accound the 5% discount...

EDIT:

Correction, £114...

£111 ish with the discount

Titsy · June 10, 2009, 12:51:07 PM

I'm pretty sure they pre-pay the VAT / Duty too (they did with my lights) so that's all in...

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 02:23:29 PM

Indeed

Rock Auto $166.42 incl shipping.

EDGE · June 10, 2009, 02:43:46 PM

Quoting: Titsy

I'm pretty sure they pre-pay the VAT / Duty too (they did with my lights) so that's all in...

I'm not sure they do dude... if it comes by fedex you can expect a bill 28 days after delivery

Titsy · June 10, 2009, 03:15:37 PM

Quoting: EDGE

I'm not sure they do dude... if it comes by fedex you can expect a bill 28 days after delivery

Not when I ordered, it was all payed up front so it sailed through customs... Might only be an option on priority shipping, not sure...

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 03:39:37 PM

Right, Charged battery, took of alternator, had a look around & resoldered a couple of joints & replaced all on car.

Started Car, at first excellent 14.65v

I thought but odd as I hadn;t really done anything. It then after about a minute & while I was in the car the volt gauge dropped to 13... checked it again across the battery and it had dropped to 12.34v

everything is tight, there are no problems with the wiring & everything looks fine, so I can only assume that something to do with my rebuild of my old alt is not working properly

Basically i'm going to buy a new alt & give up with this one, which is dissappointing because I thought I'd done well repairing it myself before

I'm going to order it from Rock auto & order a bunch of the service items I wanted to get too.

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 03:41:24 PM

Oh and whats also odd, is I let it run for a while to warm it up, and even off choke it seemed to be hunting for an idle, will the drop in voltage cause this?

Also the Oil Pressure gauge was jumping about a bit too which is odd? could the pressure sender be faulty?

FUBAR · June 10, 2009, 04:38:38 PM

Order placed.
along with some other service bits needed imminently

Jamieg285 · June 11, 2009, 03:42:06 AM

Have you taken a reading between the alt +ve and batt -ve?

I'm not leccy expert but it is possible that the batt shows a higher volt reading whilst it is recharging from the start up, and then drops once it's up to full charge?

Quoting: FUBAR

Oh and whats also odd, is I let it run for a while to warm it up, and even off choke it seemed to be hunting for an idle, will the drop in voltage cause this?

Sounds like it's running lean. I don't suppose it's very easy to pull a plug and get a reading on yours?

Quoting: FUBAR

Also the Oil Pressure gauge was jumping about a bit too which is odd? could the pressure sender be faulty?

I'm assuming it's an electric sender, not mechanical? If so the sender could be suspect, but it could also be surges in pressure? Have you double checked the oil levels (obvious I know)?

Roadkill · June 11, 2009, 05:09:56 AM

Quoting: Jamieg285

Have you double checked the oil levels (obvious I know)?

When was the oil last changed as well - unlikely that it's that blocked, I know - but it may be worth using a "flushing" additive before changing the oil next.

EDGE · June 11, 2009, 05:48:55 AM

only problem with flushing things are theat they take out all the little carbon deposits that are busy filling little cracks, holes, and divots etc.... sometimes the flush can be more hassle than its worth... I wouldnt do it on an old car personally.. a mate did it on an old audi 80 and it was never right again....

art b · June 11, 2009, 06:26:42 AM

id agree wiff edge,
with modern oils ya shouldnt need a flush as they have detergents , many engines have gone bang afterwards,
i used to flush engines and had no problems ...but theres always a chance of it going wrong...

Roadkill · June 11, 2009, 08:21:30 AM

I've always flushed motors before changing oil . . . . . If it's the sludge and gunge that's holding your motor together you've got far bigger problems than a few potential oil leaks to worry about !!!

I've never had issues with flushing before - I've used the stuff in nearly all of my cars - the oldest being over 50 at the time. No issues, ever.

Flushing coolant systems is something else entirely, though . . . .

FUBAR · June 11, 2009, 08:49:22 AM

Last oil Change was last year, next one is as soon as the new filter etc (incl a new sender) arrives from Rock Auto. (should have been done before the show season started but it got delayed)
Oil levels are fine.

Quoting: Jamieg285

between the alt +ve and batt -ve?

Yes, when it was sat before running it was about 12.55v, when I first started the car is was up to a steady 14.65v then after the volt gauge in the car dropped while I was watching it it had gone down to 12.34v & was slowly falling.

Quoting: Roadkill

"flushing" additive

1 for (with follow up) and 2 against... i'll think about it.

Quoting: Jamieg285

Sounds like it's running lean. I don't suppose it's very easy to pull a plug and get a reading on yours?

What do you mean a reading? No its not difficult to get to a plug to test, to test all 8 though would be more tricky on some of them.

I also have a new Fuel Filter at home too which i've had for ages, might be worth changing that when all the rest of servicing is done.

The only complaint running wise is that the valve stems on 2 cylinders leak slightly which gunks up the plugs meaning I have to pull those 2 every few months & clean them up. This is not a major running issue, but is a MAJOR issue to repair properly.

Oh and I managed to snap my T40 Torx bit putting the alt back on last night... luckily its a Halfords Professional one so I just handed it over in my lunch hour & was simply presented with a shiny new one

Halfords Prof. FTW