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Ryan's IROC Thread

Started by FUBAR, July 17, 2006, 05:51:47 AM

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Jamieg285

Quoting: FUBAR
What do you mean a reading? No its not difficult to get to a plug to test, to test all 8 though would be more tricky on some of them.


One or two would give you a general reading, which is better than none, but won't tell you if you are having a problem with a specific cylinder.

To read, remove and compare to the pics in the Haynes manuals.  Ideally looking for a nice tan colour.  White is hot (lean), black is rich, and there are a bunch of other signs, but they are rarer and indicate real problems.

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
The only complaint running wise is that the valve stems on 2 cylinders leak slightly which gunks up the plugs meaning I have to pull those 2 every few months & clean them up. This is not a major running issue, but is a MAJOR issue to repair properly.


It is possible to replace the stem seals WITHOUT removing the heads . . . . .

FUBAR

Quoting: Jamieg285
To read, remove and compare to the pics in the Haynes manuals.


Oh thats what you mean, yeah thats easy enough.
I was thinking you meant screw some sort of fancy device into each plug hole & run the engine for some reason.

Quoting: Roadkill
It is possible to replace the stem seals WITHOUT removing the heads . . .


I think i know what you mean here, i've got a vague mental image of a strange contraption that stops the valves dropping...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
i've got a vague mental image of a strange contraption that stops the valves dropping...


You can also thread rope into the cylinder in question via the spark plug hole, then manually turn the block over to compress the rope against the valves as well, hence stopping them drop - apparently.

You can get a "in situ" valve spring compressor to do such work.

Gator

Quoting: Roadkill
Quoting: FUBAR
i've got a vague mental image of a strange contraption that stops the valves dropping...


You can also thread rope into the cylinder in question via the spark plug hole, then manually turn the block over to compress the rope against the valves as well, hence stopping them drop - apparently.

You can get a "in situ" valve spring compressor to do such work.



you can get a false spark plug that connects to a compressor that stops the little buggers falling in

FUBAR

Quoting: FUBAR 10 Jun 2009 21:38:38
Order placed.


Order Rec'd all present & correct
Nice to see Rockauto live up to their shipping reputation again

Now all I need to get is a batch of 10w40 Oily stuff & some ATF

ATF - is it all the same? and I seem to remember the 700R4 needing 5 litres??  will look in the manual.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Manual says 4-5 pints (so 2.25 - 2.75 Litres max) as a starting point, not 5 litres LOL
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

ianjpage

Quoting: FUBAR
10w40 Oily stuff


I think i got a 5L bottle of this if you want it ??

Titsy

Quoting: FUBAR
Now all I need to get is a batch of 10w40 Oily stuff & some ATF


FYI, you get twice as much magnatec for your money at CostCo...

FUBAR

Quoting: Titsy
FYI, you get twice as much magnatec for your money at CostCo...


exactly what I was planning TBH, gives me reserve for Stem seal consumption replacement.

Although i've lost my 1l topup bottle which has really annoyed me
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Have done the easy stuff today, changed the Alternator, Serp belt & Air filters, didn't take long funnily enough.

All is now fine Voltage wise so i tested the car out by driving to Costco & Halfords to buy all the Oils & stuff I need for tomorrow

Happy Days
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Thankyou very much for your help today Steve

Jobs done this weekend:
Oil & filter Change
Fuel Filter Change
Transmission Fluid & filter change
Alternator Replaced
Air Filters & Serp Belt changed

Still to do:
Swap out Oil Pressure sender (provided i've bought the right one)
Rear diff Oil ??? dunno what I need for this yet.

Was please to see No metal particles at all in the Trans Pan, there was some sludgy stuff stuck to the magnet in the bottom but thats pretty normal.  The fluid was ok too
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

F Body

Quoting: FUBAR
Rear diff Oil ??? dunno what I need for this yet.


Gasket and oil

Jamieg285

Quoting: FUBAR
Quoting: Jamieg285
I'd be researching to try and find reasons why they are failing.


Any ideas on that?
It died by itself over winter last time, I'd assumed through last of use.



Responses from my search:

Q: What causes Alts to die?

It depends on what you mean by "die"
If you are lucky, your alternator will die of old age. It takes 25-30 years and the bearings dry out and fail. In this case, the electrical parts still work and all you need to do is put in new bearings.
If you put on a lot of miles, the alternator will "die" long before the bearings give up. You will wear the brushes down to the point where they don't work. In this case, new brushes fix it.
Electrical and electronic failures can happen at any time. Electronics doesn't need a reason to fail. It just happens. You can lose the diodes or the regulator at anytime they decide to die. Or they can die because the alternator is being overloaded. A car that has lots of electrical accessories will almost surely experience more and faster alternator failures than a car with few accessories. Electric fans on radiators and rear window grid defrosters put a lot of load on electrical systems so they cause lots of early failures of alternators.
And, finally, other causes of failed alternators are jump-starting a car or disconnecting the battery with the engine running. These things can overload the alternator causing failures.

Heat, especially in a third gen. Weak battery, low resistance leads to higher voltage, kills the diodes over time. Bad internal regulator, same deal. Rebuilds with a lifetime warranty are the way to go sometimes.

A short can draw power continuously and kill alternators. I had that problem on the 81 until we finally tracked down the short.




I'd give each of those a check over.

FUBAR

- Bearings, were fine, no play in them at all, even after I removed it this time.
- Heat, it get s what it gets, can;t change that
- Weak Battery - Battery was replaced when I had the alarm fitted and I have never had anyproblems with it, even after extended down times.
- A Short - this would be VERY noticable surely? as in a dead battery on a extremely regular basis & other stuff not working.
- Internals - possible, it could have been installer error the 1 thing I had trouble with when rebuilding the alt was soldering the connections, my soldering iron could not get them hot enough to properly tin the solder right into the 4 connections so that could have caused a problem.
- High Drain - The only non stock addition electrics wise is the amp in the boot which has a blown channel (I think) I don't know how to disconnect this.  I've never been that worried about the stereo in the car so have never done anything with it since I bought it.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
Rear diff Oil ??? dunno what I need for this yet


Quoting: F Body
Gasket and oil


Is yours an LSD ? - If so you'll need specific LSD oil or an additive.

F Body

Quoting: Roadkill
Is yours an LSD ? - If so you'll need specific LSD oil or an additive.



GM Part No. GM1052358  - 118ml / 4 fl.oz for £8.44 the last time I bought some

FUBAR

Quoting: F Body
last time I bought some


where from?
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Quoting: Roadkill
Is yours an LSD ? - If so you'll need specific LSD oil or an additive.


Indeed it is, part of the reason why I didn't buy any diff oil was that I couldn't see any LSD Additive in Halfords.

On a Separate note, I was looking at the diff covers (like Deans one) on summit & I cannot find ANY that are right, The Diff on the IROC has 9 Bolts on it, and ALL of the ones that came up in searches by make/model and even manually were either 10,12 or 14Bolts

anyone got any ideas what the diff is?  All I know is that thirdgen.org technical page says that all the LSDs were Borg Warner and 2.77:1 ratio without the G92 option.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

F Body

Quoting: FUBAR
Quoting: F Body
last time I bought some

where from?


http://www.bauer-millett.com/#/parts\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.bauer-millett.com/#/parts

I usually call in when I passing ( it's in Manchester City Centre ) but when I mail order anything it usually arrives the next day

NB : Genuine GM Parts, not USless Auto's Chinese copies

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
The Diff on the IROC has 9 Bolts on it



Rocky

9 bolt is a borg warner, I have just bought one to recondition for mine as they are alot stronger than the GM 10 bolts, Its just when they go wrong the parts are harder to get hold of, Diff covers are pricey for them too.

FUBAR

Quoting: Rocky
they are alot stronger than the GM 10 bolts


Thats good to know

Quoting: Rocky
Its just when they go wrong the parts are harder to get hold of


Thats not good to know, better make sure Its looked after then

Quoting: Rocky
Diff covers are pricey for them too.


Boo Know anywhere that has them?
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Titsy

Quoting: FUBAR
The Diff on the IROC has 9 Bolts on it



I guess the gasket i've got is of no use then...

FUBAR

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...