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Ryan's IROC Thread

Started by FUBAR, July 17, 2006, 05:51:47 AM

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FUBAR

So, a tough decision to be made this week, whether or not to Tax the Camaro, or to SORN it over winter.  If I did it would be the first time it's been SORN'd here and I would be without the car until about March next year

£225 on tax now when I've got enough other money related things to worry about ATM, or no car...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Andy

Its a tough one, but in reality how often would you drive her over winter? Thats the question to ask.

Or would going down the slightly more expensive but less outlay in one go route of 6 months tax just to tide over till next year?

Cunning Plan

Quoting: FUBAR
and I would be without the car until


Not really, you can tax the car at anytime. For example, you can SORN it for a month, then re-tax it.
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

art b

Quoting: Cunning Plan

Not really, you can tax the car at anytime. For example, you can SORN it for a month, then re-tax it.


This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

FUBAR

Well, it's now SORN'ed will be back on the road in March though. And I can take the time to finally fit the Spohn rear suspension bits I bought years ago and do some other jobs on the car while it's 'AFK' so to speak.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Incursus

Ahh well reminded, must remember to SORN mine on Monday.

FUBAR

Electrical Gremlins

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/gremlins_poster.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

So i'm thinking
- Its all ignition controlled power not just headlight controlled power because the radio & heater stopped working as well (which was fun @ midnight with no demister).
- I've checked the fuses & they're all fine
- Its probably a bad earth
- The internal cabin lighting, the gauges themselves, the rear window heater and all exterior electrics still work so its specifically dash related.
- i'm hoping this has nothing to do with my lock barrel change done last year as I really don't want to take the steering column apart again.

does this seem like i'm on the right track?
anyone got any other ideas?
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Oh and the cruise control still isn't working so a new module is going to get ordered and fitted while I have stuff apart this time as well.

Anyone know where it is as there's 2 types and I need to know the model no.

looks like this:
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

art b

could it be something simple like a multi plug...

can you get onto some connections with a meter and see where the power gets too...
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

FUBAR

I can yes, trouble is when there's tons of wires going into 1 plug I don't know which ones to test without spending days reading the wiring diagrams in the Haynes / Chilton manuals
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Quoting: FUBAR
Oh and the cruise control still isn't working so a new module is going to get ordered and fitted while I have stuff apart this time as well.
Anyone know where it is as there's 2 types and I need to know the model no.
looks like this:


I cannot find any info online or looking in the car I can't find this module???

Rockauto says there is one (of 2 variants) so it must be there somewhere as they're normally spot on with these things...

Confused
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Andy

Ouch, sorry to hear your woes.

Slightly confused though as to what you have working, from the above:

Dash back lights, heater back lights, shifter lights, not working.

Heater blower, not working.

Radio, not working.

Headlights working.

Interior light, rear view mirror map lights, working.

If thats right, I'll dig out my haynes manual and start tracing for any connectors to check out. My guess is, it'll be a connector thats corroded or gone bad while its been not used.

FUBAR

haven't tested the map lights, but the rest is right yes.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

I'm obviously no pro when it comes to electrics but it doesn't sound like an earth issue to me.

Most of those bits will have separate earths so I'd be inclined to think it was a multi plug.



The large one on the D/S bulkhead would be my first guess .... It's split into two halves so should be easy to find in the wiring diagram.


FUBAR

It could well be something like that, I meant to say as we'll the 'info' lights like seatbelt, SES, handbrake etc still work so it has to be somewhere with the accessory power feed.

I've only got limited access in my garage because I can't get to the passenger side door and have now run out of daylight until next Saturday so have a few days to think about this prob and figure out where to start.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

art b

bleh ... modern car electrics ....
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Andy

Sorry Ryan, went out to my car to go grab the Haynes and got distracted by the footwell of water I've gained over the last few days. Appears my passenger side window rubbers are no where near water proof!

Will start investigating now...

Jamieg285

Could be the ignition switch, at the base of the steering column.  This is the first part of the circuit where power is fed from the main feed to the different circuits.

You might be able to get access to the live terminal with a multi-gauge without removing the plug, but if not, trace the wire from there along to the next suitable point that you can get access.

Going from an 81 wiring diagram (Yes, it's not the same, but I doubt this area will be any different) there are 2 IGN feeds from the ignition switch.
One is Pink/Blk and goes to engine compartment (as Pink) (distributor feed - OK that bit is different ) , but also (as pink) as feed to the Turn Signal/BackUp fuse.  
The second is Orange and goes to fuses for C/H(?), WDO(?) and A/C (which is also the Heater feed).
A third option is the ACC position, Brown wire, feeding Radio and Wipers.

If you have a copy of the 3rd gen wiring, I'd welcome a copy for reference.

Andy

Ryan, pull the fuses for the Instrument Panel and see if you have a voltage either side of the terminal. Then its going to be a case of tracing it back, but I think Jamie could be on to it.

F Body

I doubt the 4th Gen is very different, after all it's basically a reskinned 3rd gen with a new drive train
Welcome to consult my GM Dealer repair manuals

FUBAR

Cheers Guys, very good info.

I'll have a look this Saturday when I have daylight, fingers crossed its not raining
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Ralph

Very tidy looking motor mate! Good to see another local chap that uses Paragon! Those guys are cool and get to work on some cool cars! Hope you get the lecky stuff sorted soon it's never too much fun to play around with!
Live Fast - Die Last

www.v8uk.co.uk

FUBAR

Ok Lunchtime update:

I found the cruise control module its here:
(Click for full size)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/CCModuleLocation_zps97eee58a.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/CCModuleLocation_zps97eee58a.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>
Trouble is I can't see a model no on it and i'm not sure I can get it out easily...

EDITED: scratch this, new theory, see below.
I have also (I think) identified where the problem is with the electrics?...
(Click for full size)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/ChassisElectrical_zpsf048dbc9.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/ChassisElectrical_zpsf048dbc9.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

the only thing is 5v seems low? i'm going to go & double check this and check the battery for a triple check (although it started the car fine and has been attached to my fancy CTek battery charger for a week so I know its fine)
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Ok New Theory

The clock on the Radio is on when the headlights are off but goes off when the headlights are turned on.
ALL Exterior lights as well as all interior lights that aren't controlled by the headlight switch work so...

(Click for full size)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/ChassisElectrical2_zps99bd538c.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Well that was an easy fix...

I quickly found the problem when trying to get access to the headlight switch and proved that not only was my 2nd deduction above 100% correct but that it also certainly did explain the low voltage reading across the fuse I tested...

But I have to come clean about this because I pissed myself laughing when I realised the issue here, and that this problem was seemingly also related to the age old "Loose nut behind the steering wheel problem"

...The Dimmer was turned down for the headlight controlled internal lights...

Sometimes I even astound myself with my stupidity, its just a good job I have a sense of humour about these things eh?

How can I explain the fact the heater didn't work?
Well its the same problem again i'm afraid, it was dark when I tried to use it, and because I have a silver vinyl overlay over my heater controls they are not lit... I didn't realise the mode selector was in the off position

In my defence (its a flimsy one!! LOL) all the lighting concerned in my Car is Blue LEDs which means I haven't intentionally touched the dimmer in 7 years because it does nothing, I genuinely completely forgot there even was one!!

I hereby relinquish my permissions to ever work on cars again

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...