Ryan's IROC Thread

Incursus · January 23, 2014, 07:45:49 AM

Quoting: Titsy

Quite cool, but is it legal?

Spoilsport

FUBAR · January 23, 2014, 07:47:53 AM

Quoting: Titsy

Quite cool, but is it legal?

Taken from a MOCGB post:

Quoting: steve-p

Here's what the MOT test manual says about red indicators:

Testers must check "that every direction indicator emits amber light, except vehicles first used before 1 September 1965 where both front indicators may be white and both rear indicators red"

and "Vehicles first used before 1 September 1965 Direction indicators may be incorporated with stop lamps, or combined with side or rear lamps."

Which seems to suggest that they are legal on a April 1965 built car. Sequential lights aren't mentioned specifically so since they aren't excluded, and red indicators are allowed, I don't see that there should be a problem.

Quoting: GeoffW

Also says there "reason for rejection, flash rate not between 60 and 120 per minute"

They're probably fine, even if they're not, the sequential selector is a flip switch on the board, so you can just chose not to use it if there are any issues.

I'll wait & see what the company says about making the Reverse and Rear fog light panels, if they can't i'll buy a Red 1156 LED Bulb & test that, if that works fine then i'll order a set of these anyway

FUBAR · January 23, 2014, 07:52:51 AM

Quoting: Andy

Ryan, is your IROC lowered? Those two examples look like they're dropped by at least 2". Might want to factor that in when considering the look.

No its not, and i'm not intending to lower it either.

I like the look of 17"s, the 18"s dont look too overboard in the pics but its difficult to tell.
TBH the ONLY way id change the wheels is if I can get exact replicas made and for some reason go temporarily mad enough to spend that kind of money

so this is probably all hypothetical...

Andy · January 23, 2014, 07:55:21 AM

On the subject of sequential flash, our tester said, if it looks stock and came fitted, then theres not a lot he can do to reject it. It would have to be amber though.

The danger is more whether other people would under stand it and accept it as a turn signal.

The above relates to the Mustang having some modern LED rear tail lights than have the option to flash sequentially across the three lamps on the rear, but only in red.

FUBAR · January 23, 2014, 08:02:03 AM

Quoting: Andy

On the subject of sequential flash, our tester said, if it looks stock and came fitted, then theres not a lot he can do to reject it. It would have to be amber though.

Fair doos, they are amber (i know it looks white in the 1st vid)
I reckon i'll go with it, if they turn out not to be ok flip the switch and go with standard flash as that will definately be ok.

So so far the LED lights are SFC's are confirmed, just the big question left

Andy · January 23, 2014, 08:04:39 AM

How much are you SFC coming in at? I saw some rather nice look Alston(sp) ones which are contoured and bolt in. Thought they looked pretty sweet, just have no idea on the cost.

EDIT:
Might have helped if I had actually checked Jegs!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Alston-Race-Cars/064/102411/10002/-1?parentProductId=2388413\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.jegs.com/i/Alston-Race-Cars/064/102411/10002/-1?parentProductId=2388413

Double EDIT:
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm162/andydpics/reece_zps136b15c1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm162/andydpics/reece_zps136b15c1.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\" width=150>

Just under £200.. not bad.

Roadkill · January 23, 2014, 01:12:49 PM

LED lights look O.K . . . not too chavvy, although not my cuppa tea.

Rims - Go for max 17" . . . The more rubber you loose on the sidewall the harsher pot holes will be on your rims . . . and, realistically, you're gonna hit some pot holes.

If you wanted serious performance I'd say go bigger . . .

Brakes : If I'm honest, a lot of people make a big deal about stopping if they're planning on increasing the power in their car a little bit . . . (bare with me) . . . realistically, a complete overhaul and stainless flexi's will cover what you want to do.

If you double your Bhp, it doesn't mean you'll be doubling the speed you're driving does it ? - Realistically, that won't actually change the speed you drive (just how fast you get there) so stopping power doesn't *need* to be increased.

That said big brakes and 4/6-pot set-ups are great, just don't get too hung up on it.

FUBAR · January 23, 2014, 07:27:37 PM

That is a very good point, and I do appreciate that the 13" rotor kits (the expensive option) would probably be overkill and would make it much easier to just lock up the wheels and not actually slow the car down well at all in those circumstances.

The stock stuff will be improved by stainless flexi's and the standard diameter SS4 and SS4+ Baer kits will be enough of an improvement if I chose to go for them and fit with the original wheels.

Good food for thought.

Roadkill · January 24, 2014, 04:52:14 AM

It's been proven that stainless flexi's help as they eliminate bulging under pressure - directing all the forces where they're needed.

Suspension plays a major part of braking, too. Huge discs and 6-pots are great but if your suspension is "sloppy" you'll be nose-diving under braking and those lovely rear brakes won't be doing much.

Has your IROC got ABS ?

FUBAR · January 24, 2014, 07:30:54 AM

Quoting: Roadkill

Has your IROC got ABS ?

Nope, which is why I say about locking up the brakes more easily with big discs if i'm not careful.

Roadkill · January 24, 2014, 07:46:53 AM

I think - IMHO - you'd be better off getting a decent set of springs and shocks under there (for under $1,000), then over-haul your brakes and add flexi's.

That way you're not spending thousands on just one thing . . . by improving your suspension you'll benefit from the improved handling, road-holding, launching and braking 100% of the time . . . It makes sense to me to put money into the things you'll benefit from most ??

And yeah, you're likely to lock the fronts with a set up like that (proving that, yes, you CAN have too much braking !!).

FUBAR · January 24, 2014, 07:55:14 AM

I'm not sure I fancy fitting front springs on a 3rd gen again, after doing yours and seeing what it did to the washers on your spring compressor no wonder nobody else was under the car as well... they didn;t want a spring through the face

AFAIK the shocks are still from when the card was stateside, making them now 10 years old at least (Unless Rocky knows if they were changed during Mike's ownership)

coupled with the spohn stuff I have already possibly new springs and a full brake overhaul, you're right there would be a noticable improvement.

Roadkill · January 24, 2014, 08:57:38 AM

Yeah, it got a bit scary.

I think I'd make my own washers next time . . . .

On the plus-side, the rears are easy-peasy !

Andy · January 24, 2014, 11:10:48 AM

Saw a video of a guy removing them and installing them without spring compressors and just using a jack under the A-arm, that not a viable way of doing it?

Roadkill · January 24, 2014, 11:39:19 AM

Quoting: Andy

Saw a video of a guy removing them and installing them without spring compressors and just using a jack under the A-arm, that not a viable way of doing it?

Yeah. You've got to find lots of "ballast" (who shall remain nameless) to stop the front of the car lifting up, though.

EDIT - did we get pictures of that ???

EDIT, EDIT - People have also use ratchet straps but there's not a lot of room for them under the third-gens . . . . Ironically the Caddy was easier than the Z28 . . .

Titsy · January 24, 2014, 12:19:39 PM

Quoting: Roadkill

Yeah. You've got to find lots of "ballast" (who shall remain nameless)

FUBAR · January 24, 2014, 12:41:08 PM

Quoting: Roadkill

EDIT - did we get pictures of that ???

Yes, it's on your PC somewhere, I've seen it before.

Quoting: Roadkill

On the plus-side, the rears are easy-peasy !

Yeah just let the rear axle hang and you can pull them out by hand

I remember you being slightly surprised when I did that once.

Roadkill · January 24, 2014, 12:43:06 PM

Quoting: FUBAR

Yes, it's on your PC somewhere, I've seen it before.

I'll have a look.

Quoting: FUBAR

Yeah just let the rear axle hang and you can pull them out by hand

Jamieg285 · January 27, 2014, 07:51:07 AM

For future reference, I have a decent Snap-On spring compressor that could be loaned out.

I've done the front springs on mine a couple of times without any issues.

art b · January 27, 2014, 10:21:45 AM

Quoting: Roadkill

EDIT, EDIT - People have also use ratchet straps

\

been there done that with my ovlov ...

tried it ..because i could ...

FUBAR · January 28, 2014, 04:05:24 PM

Brains going off on one again...

Ok, so this car has Torq-Thrust II wheels 17x8" front 0mm Offset (as stock) fitted with 245/45/17 tyres.
and 17x9" rear with 24mm Offset (keeps the look exactly the same as stock with all the 1" of extra wheel on the inside) with 275/40/17 tyres.

It also has a 2.25" front and 2" rear drop (if I was to do this the most I would do is 1" all round.

I like but I prefer these:

Torq-Thrust M wheels in Anthracite/Grey finish... so I made a mockup...

I am fully aware this post shows 2 things I said I would never change on this car, Non-stock wheels and a minor lowering...

Roadkill · January 28, 2014, 05:16:41 PM

I had 15" Torq Thrusts on mine, obviously. They're good wheels, relatively easy to look after.

I didn't think they suited mine (they just came up cheap) so changed them.

I think they'd work on yours but it's a lot of money - especially once you've added tyres, too.

A 1" drop I would definitely recommend.

FUBAR · January 28, 2014, 05:25:32 PM

I liked them on your Camaro TBH, the M series as above has a slightly different design for the centre cap, it has a clip-in cap that they say crosses over with their replica IROC wheels I mentioned before... which makes me think, will my IROC centre caps fit these wheels?...

As for tyres various UK retailers sell the sizes required (Falken Tyres) the set of 4 is approx £650 which is about £150 more than 4x 245/50/16s would cost me

Andy · January 28, 2014, 06:49:14 PM

I've got to say, with all of these wheels, I think a drop will be needed, otherwise you run the risk of the 4x4 look.

All the cars I've seen with really good looking wheel combos have also had a drop.

FUBAR · January 28, 2014, 07:51:37 PM

Quoting: Andy

I've got to say, with all of these wheels, I think a drop will be needed, otherwise you run the risk of the 4x4 look.

All the cars I've seen with really good looking wheel combos have also had a drop.

Yeah this is what i'm thinking,

the issue I have is that the actual drop seems to vary a lot from car to car, even on Summit the Eibach Sportline kit lists its drops as 1.6in front and 1.3in rear but the narrative states anywhere between 1.75in to 2.25in drop??.

Dean what did your Z28 end up at after you added the sportline kit? (even with its diet)
The other thing to bear in mind is that I think the IROCs were 1" lower than the 'lower' models from stock anyway.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/eib-4-0138/applications/year/1989/make/chevrolet/model/camaro?prefilter=1"\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/eib-4-0138/applications/year/1989/make/chevrolet/model/camaro?prefilter=1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/eib-4-0138/applications/year/1989/make/chevrolet/model/camaro?prefilter=1

In all honesty after 25 years on stock springs my IROC is possibly 1/2 lower than it started off with.
Edit: Measuring from the floor to highest point of the fender lip the IROC is currently 27" front and 27.5" rear

I'd either buy the Eibach Pro 1" kit or the Hotchkis 1" equivalent to be on the safe side...

This is how my car sits now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/2011-3_zps3ef15082.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/2011-3_zps3ef15082.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\" width=150>