Ryan's IROC Thread

[Andy]

Mine are stock springs and I have no idea how long they've been on there for, but this is what my arch gap looks like.

If I was to do the wheels, which I'm a bit hesitant, I would look at the same, just a 1" drop. Ground clearance is one thing that would just piss me off every time I took the thing out.

[Roadkill]

Quoting: FUBAR

The other thing to bear in mind is that I think the IROCs were 1" lower than the 'lower' models from stock anyway.

I think you're right . . . when I looked into it the Eibach Pro was labeled as effectively putting IROC springs on (basically a 1" drop).

I still think mine is HIGH at the back with the Eibach Sportline's on BUT, as you say, I've lost a bit of weight back there.

My front end is nicely low . . . the headers are what make it an issue - nothing else . . . my shorter airdam probably helps, too.

I'd suggest you'd be fine with the Sportline's on yours, but don't change your strut towers (like I did).

EDIT - This is the only side-view of mine but it hadn't properly settled as it'd only just been put back on the ground . . . also, at the time, the passenger side was still on axle stands.

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/Roadkill-Auto/media/IMAG2223_zps29c17215.jpg.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

[FUBAR]

Ok, some hurdles are just put here to test us...

I have highlighted in the Pic below the requirements that I would need to fit these TT 'M' series wheels to my car in blue, sizes, offset, bolt pattern etc...  why on earth would American Racing make the 17x9" wheel in the correct size and offset that I need but then only drill them for the 5x4.5" Ford/Chrysler stud pattern and not the 5x 4.75" GM stud pattern...  



I have emailed them to find out...

[FUBAR]

Well that was no use, AR forwarded my email on to what I presume is one of their European distributors without even reading it or making a comment, and then they (in broken English) promptly told me that they only make the wheels as per the chart above which is what I'd told them in my original email

Not good enough, will pick this up another time.

Anyway on a brighter note I've just ordered a set of Braided Flexi-lines for my existing brakes to give them a pep-up and also a replacement LED 3rd brake light setup to replace my in-spoiler brake light housing that has at least 2 totally nackered bulb sockets in it.

(from Hawks who I don't like very much is the only downside... hopefully they won't screw me with door-to-port shipping like they did last time I used them which cost me a fortune )

[Andy]

I was about to order something from them, but I'm severly put off by their lack of clarity on how much stuff costs to ship before the order gets confirmed. Not a nice way to shop.

[Roadkill]

I avoid them like the plague !

[F Body]

Quoting: FUBAR

hopefully they won't screw me with door-to-port shipping like they did last time I used them which cost me a fortune )

They screwed me on the VAT and delivery charges

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Eu Distributor for AR Wheels

Dear Ryan,

Yes, we can make the wheels in 17x9 +24 5x120,65, but then you have to buy 40x of these wheels. So that is no option. The AR105 comes not in blank

So... I need 19 friends all with Rear-disc'd Borg-warner axle 3rd gens who all happen to have the exact same taste in wheels as me...

Not gonna happen.

[Andy]

Hahaha! Thats an opportunist sales pitch they're trying there. Say you have buyers, but you need 4 samples for... display!

[Titsy]

Hmmm, are you planning on a rear end rebuild or swap at any point? You could either switch to a ford rear end, or have the studs removed from the hubs and new positions machined between the old ones but with the ford PCD...

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Titsy

Hmmm, are you planning on a rear end rebuild or swap at any point?

I'd rather not if I can help it, that issue won't be for probably many years time when the car gets some more horses.

[Andy]

Quoting: Titsy

Hmmm, are you planning on a rear end rebuild or swap at any point? You could either switch to a ford rear end, or have the studs removed from the hubs and new positions machined between the old ones but with the ford PCD...

A Ford 9" swap on these is a real real pain in the ass as far as I could work out. Hauser said they could do it, but you'd be looking in the thousands figures. The difference being the 9" housing has no location for the torque arm to bolt up to, so a suitable fixing would have to be made for it.

That said, if you're doing it Ryan... I'll have your rear end off you!

[Titsy]

what about:

Quoting: Titsy

have the studs removed from the hubs and new positions machined between the old ones but with the ford PCD...

[Incursus]

Quoting: Andy

Hahaha! Thats an opportunist sales pitch they're trying there. Say you have buyers, but you need 4 samples for... display!

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Andy

That said, if you're doing it Ryan... I'll have your rear end off you!

As I said, i'd rather not if at all possible, but purely hypothetically speaking if I was to do that, it'd be for something like this:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Drivetrain/Moser-12-Bolt-Rear/Moser-Engineering-12-Bolt-Rear-Complete.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Drivetrain/Moser-12-Bolt-Rear/Moser-Engineering-12-Bolt-Rear-Complete.html

Quoting: Titsy

have the studs removed from the hubs and new positions machined between the old ones but with the ford PCD...

Hmm that is a possibility, and you'd never notice the difference front-to-back would you...

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

Thats an opportunist sales pitch they're trying there

Actually, many companies work like that in the states . . . The guys on the Modified Cadillac forum struck a deal with one of the door-rubber manufacturers previously and PML (diff covers & valve covers etc) will make ANYTHING providing you have 20 (IIRC) wanting the same (to justify tooling costs).

Quoting: Titsy

You could either switch to a ford rear end

You'd need new driveshaft plus custom bracketery for that.

Quoting: Titsy

or have the studs removed from the hubs and new positions machined between the old ones but with the ford PCD...

Not a bad idea, but I'd suggest you speak to a specialist as the axle face would be weakened . . . you may (long shot) be able to get blank shafts for your axle . . ?

Quoting: FUBAR

if I was to do that, it'd be for something like this:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Drivetrain/Moser-12-Bolt-Rear/Moser-Engineering-12-Bolt-Rear-Complete.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Drivetrain/Moser-12-Bolt-Rear/Moser-Engineering-12-Bolt-Rear-Complete.html

Wow !

I'd speak to Moser first as that seems pretty steep  - especially once you've added all the (required) options !

Quoting: FUBAR

you'd never notice the difference front-to-back would you...

No, but, you can also buy spacers that alter your stud patterns . . . I think the thinnest I've seen is 3/4" so you'd need more back-space on the rims to compensate . . .

[Titsy]

Quoting: Roadkill

No, but, you can also buy spacers that alter your stud patterns . . . I think the thinnest I've seen is 3/4" so you'd need more back-space on the rims to compensate . . .

That was my first thought, but there is nothing in the list with a bigger offset than the one that's required, so there is no way of spacing it without them hanging out further than they should.

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Titsy

That was my first thought, but there is nothing in the list with a bigger offset than the one that's required, so there is no way of spacing it without them hanging out further than they should.

Must admit I didn't check.

From memory my Z28 could've got away with another 1/2" "prouder" wheels compared to stock so it may still be possible . . . It all gets a bit complicated as even after doing hours of calculations when I got my wheels, I still found they were way-off what I was expecting  . . .

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Titsy

That was my first thought, but there is nothing in the list with a bigger offset than the one that's required

Wrong, the only off-the-shelf option that AR make for that wheel type in the GM stud pattern is a 17x9" wheel with a 6.77" backspacing (+45mm offset) which would perfectly fit these "gender-bender" wheel spacers.

But...

The reason why I would never do that is because this would make the rear wheels have a VASTLY shallower look than the fronts.  A deeper inset wheel is something of a characteristic of American cars (at least older ones) especially on the rear wheels, and its something that the Borg-warner optioned IROCs like mine just about got away with the different offsets front & rear.

It's just enough that you don't *really* notice unless you know what you're looking for.  so to have an essentially "flat" rear wheel that would be needed with these spacers and the stock fronts would ruin the look of the car IMO.

[Titsy]

Quoting: FUBAR

Wrong, the only off-the-shelf option that AR make for that wheel type in the GM stud pattern is a 17x9" wheel with a 6.77" backspacing (+45mm offset) which would perfectly fit these "gender-bender" wheel spacers.

What I meant was that you are after a 74mm offset and that there is nothing in the list (independent of stud pattern as this can be taken car of by the spacer) that has a biger offset than this to allow room for the spacer. I would say that I don't believe a spacer setup be as strong as even a modified hub that had an extra set of holes machined in, but obviously it would require an axle rebuild so is more involved.

[FUBAR]

Hmm that Digi-tails website seems to have disappeared??  anyone else able to see it? (+ they never responded to my email)

https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels

If they've gone bust that's a real shame

[Andy]

I can see it, can you see the main company behind it, Spaghetti Engineering?

http://www.spaghettiengineering.com/comersus/store/home.asp\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.spaghettiengineering.com/comersus/store/home.asp

[FUBAR]

I can but as soon as I try to go to the actual digi-tails website it wont display

[F Body]

Quoting: FUBAR

I can but as soon as I try to go to the actual digi-tails website it wont display

Works for me even on this extremely crap Windows 8 Laptop

https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels

[FUBAR]

OK,

LEDs

I've been fitting a few of these SMD based LED upgrades over the last week.

I've changed the Reversing light and Rear fog light to LEDs with great success, the bulbs need some mild work with a Dremel to make them fit in the 3rd Gen's bulb sockets because the circuit boards are slightly wider than a normal bulb but they work great.  Most importantly the rear fog light is now RED as opposed to Pink like it was before and the reverse light is brighter too.  I'll post a pic of these later

Link:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161013268383?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161013268383?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I've changed the rear licence plate 194 lights and the 2 footwell lights to SMD 194 bulbs, again happy:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/LEDs-Footwell12SMD194s_zps60e59a20.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

Step 5 - Refit the Dome housing, put the lens back on (which acts as a excellent diffuser) and replace the Accessory fuse.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/LEDs-Dome06Refixhousing_zpsf38ab9de.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">