Ryan's IROC Thread

[FUBAR]

I'm happy



Oh and important info, when soldering the wires, the black wire on the panel adapter goes to the shorter wire at the front of the car, the red wire is fixed to the longer wire that loops round to the rear of the dome light mount.

[FUBAR]

Right,

I started sizing up the Brake flexi's job today, got the back end in the air (In the garage), figured out which flexi hose is for which side etc. which was fine, I was reassured to see I bought the correct kit from the US
I then realised I only have 1/2 a bottle of brake fluid and that's quite old, so i'm going to bin that and buy some new stuff from Hellfrauds tomorrow, no biggie, I can change the hoses and bleed the system at the weekend, doesn't look too hard.

However before I started doing this I was looking at the car parked on my perfectly flat driveway and the back end lists slightly to the drivers side... weird I thought its slight, but its quite noticeable

Now this listing issue is either going to be caused by shocks or springs right?  which is it more likely to be?  I bounced the rear end of the car and it was still the same.

either way its going to mean new parts, shocks is easy just buy new rear ones, but new springs is going to mean changing all 4 front & Back otherwise its just not going to look right is it?
Is it just better to do both at the same time if I can afford it?
Whats the opinions on sticking a set of 1 inch lowering springs on if they're being changed anyway?

[FUBAR]

for reference:

The "If I had to replace everything and put lowering springs on" basket from Spohn.

[Jamieg285]

I'd say it was more likely to be springs.  You'd only need to replace front and back if you are going to lower them.

Is it possible to remove the shocks without touching the springs?  That will tell you which is causing the difference.

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Jamieg285

Is it possible to remove the shocks without touching the springs? That will tell you which is causing the difference.

Yes they're separate, will give that a go.

Boingy Boingy

[Roadkill]

Unless you know what you're doing with it, I wouldn't worry about a bump steer kit.

Probably springs, as Jaime says but can be caused by semi seized bushes as well.  I have the same issue with the Caddy and that's had new shocks and springs.

Trying to remember but don't think you'll get the front shock (or strut) out without the spring.

Edit.   *Last comment is for if you were considering lowering it.

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Roadkill

Unless you know what you're doing with it, I wouldn't worry about a bump steer kit.

Fair doos.

Quoting: Roadkill

Trying to remember but don't think you'll get the front shock (or strut) out without the spring.

The only way the froint would be re-done is if it would be lowered, the listing issue is definately at the back.

I'll have a check of the bushes while i'm under there fixing the brakes, that job is top priority because is a safety issue, then i'll worry about the other suspension bits and Project Gaming Desk

[Andy]

Can someone just run me by this as I'm starting to think about doing it, but...

Lowering a car is just a fact of changing the springs? You don't need different shocks, etc. What are dropped spindles? Do they offer any benifit over lowering springs?

Don't mean to hijack your thread Ryan, just curious and this is on topic-ish

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

Lowering a car is just a fact of changing the springs?

Yes and no.  Yes, mainly.

Quoting: Andy

You don't need different shocks, etc.

No, you don't but to maintain correct operation raised tower hats should be used to raise the top connection point of the strut/shock.  Not as important at the rear (or normally even possible).

Quoting: Andy

What are dropped spindles?

Standard connections to the control / A-arms but with the spindle section fixed higher than stock.

Wheel height is raised, lowering the car, but all suspension parts remain the same.

Quoting: Andy

Do they offer any benifit over lowering springs?

Can only be done on the front (typically) but normally springs are the way to go as lowering springs will normally have improved handling properties whereas drop-spindles will give you a lowered car with normal, crap stock handling.

[Cunning Plan]

Quoting: Andy

What are dropped spindles?

Quoting: Roadkill

Standard connections to the control / A-arms but with the spindle section fixed higher than stock.

Wheel height is raised, lowering the car, but all suspension parts remain the same.

Most classic VWs have to use dropped spindles because it is a torsion-leaf suspension set-up as opposed to coil-springs.

I fit some to my bus on this page:
http://www.mkb.cc/forum/index.php?action=vthread&forum=2&topic=7603&page=7\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.mkb.cc/forum/index.php?action=vthread&forum=2&topic=7603&page=7

[Roadkill]

I supposed I should've clarified that my statements generally referred to yanks . . .

[FUBAR]

Every time I have these thoughts of lowering etc with this car I always see something like this..

http://www.midwestautocollection.com/web/used/Chevrolet-Camaro-1987-Addison-Illinois/1346188/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.midwestautocollection.com/web/used/Chevrolet-Camaro-1987-Addison-Illinois/1346188/

[Andy]

They do look a lot better an inch or so lower, but also look really good at stock height. Although my rear has really got some arch gap issues.

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Andy

Although my rear has really got some arch gap issues.

is that whats called "Builders Bum" or a "Dagenham Smile"

[Andy]

Haha, cheeky git!

As was tested on Tuesday night, you can fit a fist in my rear, but only two fingers in my front.

That sounds worse.

[FUBAR]

quick change the subject before CP sees this

[FUBAR]

Ok, so today was a productive day, I had a nice lay in until 12 Midday

Then got to work. (and no, I know its 1:50am when i'm posting this but I haven't just finished )

The Flexi Set I ordered was this: http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/products/Brake-Line-Kit%2C-StopFlex-Braided-Brake-Lines-89%252d92-Camaro-Z28-%7B47%7D-Firebird-Trans-Am-Front-Disc-%26-Rear-Disc%2C-Hi-Performance-Option-%285-pc%29.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/products/Brake-Line-Kit%2C-StopFlex-Braided-Brake-Lines-89%252d92-Camaro-Z28-%7B47%7D-Firebird-Trans-Am-Front-Disc-%26-Rear-Disc%2C-Hi-Performance-Option-%285-pc%29.html

From Hawx... Firstly as predicted from when I ordered from them last time the shipping was exortionate Hawx idiots like me may still order from you with this rip-off overseas service but any sane person would have binned your favourites link after their 1st order. They did however manage to get the parcel to be delivered to my door this time not just to Heathrow Airport which was just beyond a joke.

The Stopflex product itself though is excellent, I would highly recommend their Flexis at this stage of my ownership of this item.  There is only 1 issue which I will get into later.

So, I started with what I thought was going to be the most problematic flexi, the one between the body mounted hard lines and the rear axle.

It took me a laughable 2 hours to replace this line, mainly because it took me an hour to undo the Body mounted hardline from the flexi.  The lessons I learned from this eventually?...
1 - Don't remove the retaining clip before freeing the Hardline.
2 - 25 Years of service makes these bolts unhappy to move...

Still it eventually undid without any damage to the hardline which I was happy with  New one was in place:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/StopflexRC_zps9ff6d0eb.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

REQUEST - Help needed
Does anyone have a set of "rescue sockets" to free stuff like this?? you know the type that you hammer on to free fecked up bolts???

Or any tricks for freeing stuff like this??
END of help request

I then moved onto the 2 front lines, these were really easy because the whole line can be changed while sitting next to the car, this was awesome as I was getting neck ache from laying under the car for nearly 4 hours!!

Front Left
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/StopflexFR_zpsfe0a0a23.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">
So I invented my own, I used a retaining clip from the stock lines cobbled together with a 20mm Rubber Grommet that would normally go in a electrical socket back box to stop the flexi line rubbing on the bracket.

It'll need checking to see if it stands the test of time, but the clip is pretty well seated on there so hopefully it'll do the job.

I also took the opportunity to clean all the crap out of the Brake fluid reservoir which has built up over the years which is cool as this was drained dry.
So this leaves me with a brake system full of air with a major bleeding job to do (no not my injured thumb) and a rounded off Nipple (no not tho... oh feck it ) to fix.

So are bleed nipples for callipers universal? I'll probably buy a full set and change all of them seeing as they're all loose atm and can't cost much right?

As a result I have a favour request, if I can get some new ones for next weekend is anyone able to spare an afternoon over easter to help with the "not a 1 man job" of bleeding the brakes through?

[Andy]

I got told when I went to bleed brakes that if I ever come across a stubborn bleed nipple, just leave it be. As what will happen at worst is it gets rounded or even worse gets sheared off. In which case just bleed the brakes from the hose connection to the calliper. Not sure if this is 100% sound advice as I've not come across a stubborn nipple (shut it CP) but will be soon when I have to bleed and refresh the fluid on mine.

[FUBAR]

The trouble with that is that the bleed nipple is intentionally at the top of the calliper so if you bleed it from the Banjo connection you'll still have a calliper full of air which will obviously affect its performance.

[FUBAR]

Link dump

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/2/9/1/2/5/3/webimg/722884751_o.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/2/9/1/2/5/3/webimg/722884751_o.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201003999721?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201003999721?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


and

http://www.irwin.com/uploads/products/large/5-pc-bolt-grip%E2%84%A2-base-set-807.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://www.irwin.com/uploads/products/large/5-pc-bolt-grip%E2%84%A2-base-set-807.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028?kpid=96028&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=COLRk_aW3r0CFaQfwwod9YQAtg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028?kpid=96028&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=COLRk_aW3r0CFaQfwwod9YQAtg

[Roadkill]

The Irwin sockets are good, worth getting.   I always use single-hex spanners when working on brake lines .....

[FUBAR]

I popped to Screwfix today & Picked up the socket set above  So tomorrow morning's job is to get the brakes back up & running & see if the rears now work properly.

I also ordered that RetroSound Radio
Ssshh... don't tell the credit card

[Jamieg285]

I'm watching with interest on the success/failure of the Irwin sockets.  I too have sticky nipples

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Jamieg285

I'm watching with interest on the success/failure of the Irwin sockets. I too have sticky nipples

Well, it worked a treat, This was the little blighter after it was removed:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/StickyNippleRR_zps02ee1e67.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/StickyNippleRR_zps02ee1e67.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

Proper Fecked, but its bin fodder so no worries.
The sockets hammer on (I used a Nylon Mallet that Dean gave me) then I used a socket ratchet to get the bolt out, came out 1st time with no slipping from the Irwin socket.

£25 well spent,

Rating?
9 out of 10, and the only reason this isn't 10 out of 10 is because the box set has 5 empty spaces for smaller or larger sockets that aren't included.

[FUBAR]

Well something had to go wrong after the above worked so well.
The D/S rear calliper (not the one that had the sticky nipple) has got a leaking Banjo joint, which would be an issue if I hadn't stripped the thread out of the Bleed nipple hole making the whole calliper junk.

Not happy.