Ryan's IROC Thread

[Andy]

Helicoil not an option?

[FUBAR]

I don't have anything like that, + would that work on this were a pressure seal is needed?

A pair of new rear callipers from RockAuto is £145 + import Tax which is not bad. i'll just get those.

[Jamieg285]

Are you sure it's the caliper that's stripped and not the nipple? I had the same thing a few years ago.  I'd expect the nipple to be softer than the caliper.

[Titsy]

Quoting: FUBAR

would that work on this were a pressure seal is needed?

This should work just fine as the seal is from the conical end of the nipple seating into a conical seat at the base of the thread. The thread plays no part in the seal, so long as then preparing the calipare for the helicoil you dont damage the seat it'll work just fine.

[Andy]

Add to the above, Helicoil threads, if prepared properly are much stronger than just standard threads cut into cast aluminium.

[FUBAR]

Its definitely the calliper, I think the new bleeders I bought (M10x1mm x 36mm in length as per the stock ones) may be stainless steel the ebay ad doesn't actually say.

Its in at the moment and has just enough thread left to lightly seal the brake fluid in so its not all draining out while i'm waiting for the new callipers to arrive.

I ordered these (i'm changing both rears) from Rockauto, £190 including higher priority shipping including taxes etc.
about 4 years ago when the rears seized up over winter I replaced them from US Automotive, cost?  £418 for exactly the same thing!!

Unbelievable rip-off.

The good P/S used calliper will be going on flebay.

[FUBAR]

Well I got the New callipers fitted at the weekend and the system fully blead through with brand new fluid & new braided flexi lines.  all good, sort of.

The Handbrake now does absolutely sweet FA and it worked before  they are the same exact callipers and there doesn't appear to be any bits missing from the new ones which were on the originals.

This leaves me the fun job of adjusting the Handbrake.

So I then redid the same test I did before with the rear wheels jacked up and the car locked in 1st gear... the wheels still rotate slowly with the brakes fully on.

some googling this evening reveales that this is probably normal... typical

Quoting: CHP

Brake Bias
Q: I have been having a problem with my '89 IROC-Z's rear brakes. The car is a four-wheel disc brake system from the factory. The brakes just don't seem to hold well at all in the rear. If I jack the car off the ground and leave it in gear at idle, the wheels still turn. I was restoring the car from the engine back, so I have literally replaced every component on the brake system except the flex connectors to the back brakes at the wheels. I have even tried different brake pads, from regular asbestos to Wagner race brand. I have had the car to a Chevy dealer and a Midas center to fix, with no resolution. When I bleed the brakes, I get plenty of fluid to every wheel. The pedal always has a solid feel to it with no sponge in it. It never bottoms out on the floor, and when I take the caliper off, the pedal pushes the pad out about 3/8 inch with one push of the pedal. I also had this problem on an '88 Z28. I am at wit's end! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mike Huelsman
Mentor, OH

A: First of all, I think that you're running into a couple of things. Disc brakes are not a self-energizing braking system; they only have the force that the caliper can apply at any given time. Drum brakes have the rotation of the brake drum to force the brake shoe into the drum. The hydraulic force from the wheel cylinder pushes the primary (front) shoe into the drum, and the shoe is rotated, putting pressure into the secondary shoe and into the reaction pin on the backing plate. This is why you have so much holding force with drum brakes. That is why most "foot brake" drag racers will use drum rear brakes, so they can hold the car on the starting line at a higher rpm against the converter. With disc brakes, the rotors and pads must be up to operating temperature before you will have any braking force at a dead stop. Yes, you could increase the line pressure (install an adjustable proportioning valve) to the rear brakes to aid your dead stop issue. The only problem I see with this is when you get the brakes up to operating temperature, you will have way too much rear brake bias and the rear brakes could lock during spirited driving. When going into a turn, that's the last thing you want to happen.

If you would like to do a quick test to confirm this, drive the car and get the brakes up to temperature. Bring it home and immediately jack up the rear of the car and redo your braking test. The rear brakes will hold once they have some heat in them. Also performance (i.e., racing) pads will only aggravate the problem. Most performance-compounded pads need more temperature to create the proper coefficient of friction to perform properly.

Read more: http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/crazy.gif[/img]

[ianjpage]

Ah interesting, very odd as would have thought the handbrake should hold the wheels at a stop....i know you got "P" in auto's but if it was manual then what would hold it if the handbrake doesn't....

[Roadkill]

Quoting: ianjpage

very odd as would have thought the handbrake should hold the wheels at a stop....i know you got "P" in auto's but if it was manual then what would hold it if the handbrake doesn't....

Flashback to PhilO's Alfa rolling down the driveway outside Ryan's Mum's house . . . . . !!!

[ianjpage]

Quoting: Roadkill

Flashback to PhilO's Alfa rolling down the driveway outside Ryan's Mum's house . . . . . !!!

yikes, not good!!

[FUBAR]

Car Presents arrived today



Mod cons like Bluetooth, USB etc etc in a retro package
No DAB though so I only get 5 years use from the FM before its switched off.

[Andy]

Don't bank on FM being switched off in 5 years...

[FUBAR]

More Car Presents arrived today



The old JBL speakers had to go because they're 2ohm, the new stereo only works with 4 ohm so I got these to go into the stock speaker positions.

[FUBAR]

Well this is all fitted now.

The job of fitting the stereo expanded a bit while I had the interior in Pieces, I also removed all the wiring for the Old Phoenix Gold Amp that was in the car when I bought it, I also removed all the wiring for the old 90's Brick Carphone that this car had installed when it was new.  This was all removed without chopping into it, and resulted in the following pile of wires on my garage floor:

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And here's a few comparison pics between the old stock stereo (which i'm keeping) and the new Retrosound unit... just a slight size difference behind the scenes!!

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There's a few things with the IROC that makes installing a new stereo very easy, firstly its so convenient having all of the screw heads visible on the 80's plastic, makes life so simple.
Having stock locations for 6x4 and 6x9 speakers is also very cool!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/RetrosoundStereo07-6x9s_zpsc735fe6c.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/RetrosoundStereo07-6x9s_zpsc735fe6c.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

Also there's SO much room inside the centre console because of the huge 1.5 DIN brick of a stereo that was originally fitted!!

And lastly, particularly with my car, I said to Jamie recently when he popped over, I'm so lucky that after 25 years I can take this car apart anywhere, in this case removing the plastic sill covers and underneath it looks like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/NiceSills01_zpsdc840b98.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/NiceSills01_zpsdc840b98.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/NiceSills02_zpsb72c664e.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"> [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/89%20IROC/NiceSills02_zpsb72c664e.jpg\" border=\"0\"  alt=\"\" width=150>

[FUBAR]

So here's some side-by-side comparisons, you'll also notice that I have removed the Cig lighter (just the actual lighter, the socket is still there) and replaced it with a USB power socket.  Because this is a permanent live this also involved wiring in a hidden switch to turn it on & off as needed






I'm HUGELY impressed with this stereo, IMO this fits on with the car perfectly, as soon as I saw this on eBay I thought "that's something that might actually make me remove the stock 80's stereo..."  after some thinking and research it was ordered.  It does everything modern stereos do, it 'Bluetooths' to my phone, you can set it to UK radio frequency bands, you can fully control calls and your iPod from the big 80's dials on the radio and it blends in perfectly.  for ANYONE else with a 3rd gen, buy this stereo, I cannot recommend it high enough!

Oh and the USB power socket was from Maplins and fits perfectly into the little recess in the dash for the Cig lighter, its like it was made for it!

[Roadkill]

Quoting: FUBAR

for ANYONE else with a 3rd gen, buy this stereo

Think I'll pass.  

Does look cool, though . . . suits the interior better than the original one does !

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Roadkill

Think I'll pass.

Good point, well made

[ianjpage]

that really does work well in the dash - doesn't stand out at all -nicely done

[Incursus]

Looks good

Quoting: Roadkill

suits the interior better than the original one does !

[FUBAR]

Another little Car present arrived today, this is just a Prop for car shows really because it cannot be used.

This is an "AEG Telecar E" Old-skool "Portable" Carphone that was Manufactured in 1990 and is very similar to the system that was installed into the IROC when it was new.  No idea where this has been for 24 years (other than in the Czech Republic somewhere) but its in mint condition, doesn't look like anyone has ever pressed the buttons & the battery still has its tear-off strip on the contacts from the factory!!

[Cunning Plan]

Quoting: FUBAR

I'm HUGELY impressed with this stereo

A great couple of upgrades and both look subtle!

Quoting: FUBAR

Because this is a permanent live this also involved wiring in a hidden switch to turn it on & off as needed

Why?

It will not draw power unless you connect something to it?

[FUBAR]

It has a LED on it, I know the drain from this would be almost none but I just wanted the ability to turn it off.

[Roadkill]

I can kinda see where you're going with the car phone ...... But it's pig-ugly.

Hope you don't arrive at the next show in parachute pants and spandex to complete the look .... !

[FUBAR]

Lol no not going that far!!!

[art b]

nice work there on the sound system ....

i presume its a great improvement ...?