Ryan's IROC Thread

[FUBAR]

On the plus side I found the CC Module, and will now be ordering a new "stalk of Power" from Rock Auto as they actually sell the right one I need. (after market ones don't work, long story, will explain another time)

Now if I can just fit it without cocking something up...

actually i'd better just test its not just set to off before ordering new bits...

[art b]

ah.. user error ...

1...Have you checked its plugged in
2...Have you tried turning it off and on again...

nice cheap fix ftw..

[art b]

Quoting: art b

bleh ... old car owners ....

[F Body]

Sounds similar to my last two alarm issues ?

Put the car away on the trickle charger and covered up, about 15 mins later the alarm starts going off

Keep resetting the alarm until I get pissed off and turn the alarm off.

Drive the car about a week later and notice that the interior lights are on

If you rotate the dimmer switch all the way it turns the interior lights on, so when the alarm kept going off I unlocked the doors which also turns the interior lights on, completely unaware that the reason the alarm was going off was due the current drain on the battery

Same problem a couple of months later, confidently check the dimmer switch to find that it isn't the problem

Lock the car again and check the interior lights are off, moments later the dam alarm goes off again.

A bit more research this time by staying inside the car and locking it, after about six alarm triggers I notice that the far side map reading light, located inside the rear view mirror is on and I must have caught it when removing the Sat Nav  Double

[ianjpage]

LOL least it was a nice easy fix!

[EDGE]

[Roadkill]

There is no smiley suitable to convey this . . .

Maybe a combination of . . .






Still, it's sorted.  And as long as it's a lesson learned, it's time well spent.

[FUBAR]

Ok,

So I fitted the new "Stalk of Power" today, the good news is that its a vast cosmetic improvement over the original one as i'm sure you'll agree:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/NewCCIndStalkfitted_zpsfb0ec7b2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">
The Bad news? This hasn't fixed the Cruise control so the most common cause of CC failure, the switches failing, is not what is causing the failure for me further investigation is required.

The system:
- Holds a Vacuum (you can tell when disconnecting a hose)
- Had a new Servo fitted last year
- Has new switches due to the above new stalk
- You can hear the servo activate when the stalk switch is moved to the 'on' position, but the 'set' button does nothing.

Items left to check / replace:
- Wiring, contacts, earths etc.
- Brake release switch (Rockauto currently have no stock but this is the next prime candidate)
- CC Module replacement (needs to be removed to get model no as there's 2 types)

I'm planning some presents for the IROC this year to celebrate its 25th birthday  (hold on let me double check...  1989 +1 year, +20 years, + 4 years...  yep 25 this year!! )
More about those later, but it involves shiny things.

[Incursus]

Quoting: FUBAR

hold on let me double check... 1989 +1 year, +20 years, + 4 years... yep 25 this year!!

[FUBAR]

Fixed the rubbing noise coming from the rear D/S wheel today, little bit of tinkering with the calliper and it's sorted, free repair

[FUBAR]

I want to test this, just out of curiosity really (This is for the Borg-Warner 9-Bolt POSI in my car)
From http://www.9bolt.com/technical.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.9bolt.com/technical.html

How to check your posi unit in car:
Secure car safely with wheel chocks etc, remove handbrake and place gearbox into NEUTRAL.
Raise one rear wheel from the ground.
Measure the torque required to rotate the wheel that is off the ground. This is called the breakaway torque, and if less than around 35lb/ft the centre requires attention -- either shimming or cone replacement.
If the carrier is not currently installed the breakaway torque can be tested by securely placing an axle in a vice, with the splined end pointing straight up. Sit the posi unit onto the axle in the vice and place a second axle into the posi. Measure the torque required to rotate the second axle.

How would you do the bold bit?  I have a Tq wrench but obviously you can't just attach this to the middle of the wheel??...

If this test comes out poor a rear-end rebuild is one of the IROC's potential jobs for this year.

This website also says that the 9-Bolt is pretty bomb proof if well maintained cos it's made from the same stuff as Black-box recorders

Would fit in well with my very long term plans of a 400hp, stock looking IROC is that's the cards for years to come

[Titsy]

What do the wheel nuts get torqued up to. So long as it's more than 35ft-lb then just use one of the nus. You'll get a slight varience form the offset of the nut from the centre acting like a lever, that that means if it passes at 35 then it's actually higher (although only very marginally).

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Titsy

What do the wheel nuts get torqued up to

Until they don't move any more

[Incursus]

[Titsy]

Google says 80 ft-lbs

[FUBAR]

Ok, so I mentioned shiny things for 2014, cue the epic post.

The IROC is now 25 years Old as I mentioned before, my ethos with this car has always been, and always will be to make invisible or near-invisible (if they are complimentary to stock looks) tweaks and modernisations to my car as time goes by

The changes I've made over time have been:

- To swap out the standard Orange side markers to Clear lenses to 'clean' the side look of the car (see above)
- Added a Momo Milennium Steering wheel which was actually a wear & Tear necessity but is also IMO a perfect wheel for this car (This was Phil's recommendation and I thank him whole-heartedly for it )
- Silver gauge overlays & Blue internal dash lighting, these are probably the most un-subtle change I've made, I like them but don't love them if that makes sense. (see below)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/ryanbudd/NewCCIndStalkfitted_zpsfb0ec7b2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">

So this leads me on to what could be next for my IROC.
I have some after-market parts I've already bought but never fitted, I have a full Spohn rear suspension set in black for the car and a T/A 9-Bolt billet ally cover for the rear that are still sat in my garage.

LEDS
- Lets properly start with the literally shiny potential new things, LED lighting.
For a long time I've had thoughts of the rear lights on the IROC would be perfect for a board of LEDs behind the lenses instead of the standard filament bulb, they're big, flat and just crying out for it, but not knowing how to make such a thing or where to start it has always sat in the back of my mind.

Cue This company that I found this month:
https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels
Now I really like these, I damn near ordered a set as soon as I found the site, but have instead sent them an email about custom-making boards for UK spec Reverse light / Rear fog light conversions and am awaiting a response.  If they can, this is pretty much exactly what I had in mind, + I like the sequential indicators (Watch the 1st video)
I need to check with the insurance company if these will affect my policy in any way as well.
What do you think?  Too chavy? Too cheesy? Or a nice addition?

SFCs
- Next up is Subframe connectors, The IROC will be getting these this year if Rocky can fit it in, if so this is a definite. (advance notice m8 )

Brakes & Wheels.
- Now here is the big, big question and has the potential to cost more than that car itself... 3rd Gen Brakes suck, end of, even with 4-wheels discs they fade fast & are very prone to warping. In addition the rears initially failed on the MOT last year & have given me more hassle this month as well, so this got me thinking about upgrades. which would become a necessity in the very long run if I manage to invisibly add power to this car.

Of the "Main 3" companies for American cars, Wilwood, Baer & Brembo, Baer are the only company that do bolt on kits for the IROC covering both fronts and the 9-Bolt 'aussie disc'd rear on my car, so I'm looking their way.

They do small diameter disc kits (SS4 for rear and SS4+ for front) that will fit the stock 16" wheels no problem, but they still show the same problem the IROC has from stock, that the rear discs are bigger than the fronts!! (12" and 11" respectively) This really irritates me because it looks stupid.
Now this would still be a significant upgrade from stock, the better discs and going from single piston to 4-pot callipers would be a big step, the cost of this is approx. £1700-£1900 I reckon. As far as I know no changes to the rest of the brake system are needed, and they come with braided lines

But what got my inner Magpie really going was the 6-Pot 13" rotors that are the same front & Back (Pro+)  Baer say these will fit some 16" wheels but are designed for "17 rims and at Circa $2200 per set is not something you want to get wrong.  I need to measure the IROC wheels with their template to check.  (oh yeah, Black callipers only BTW)
http://www.baer.com/shop/ymm/1989/chevrolet2013-03-29-01-10-271014496775/camaro2013-03-29-01-10-27517919948/all2013-03-29-01-10-27272760901/front2013-03-29-01-10-27492401506/stock2013-03-29-01-10-27898983732\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.baer.com/shop/ymm/1989/chevrolet2013-03-29-01-10-271014496775/camaro2013-03-29-01-10-27517919948/all2013-03-29-01-10-27272760901/front2013-03-29-01-10-27492401506/stock2013-03-29-01-10-27898983732

But this got me thinking further, what about 17" or 18" IROC rims? Then I would be able to comfortably fit their 13" or even 14" brake kits... can you get the wheels?...

In short Yes, but not in the correct design for my car, so actually No. they all use the earlier design.
http://customwheelsmarket.com/iroczwheels.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://customwheelsmarket.com/iroczwheels.html
These guys sell them as do people on ebay but the backspacing isn't quite right for the 9-bolt rear because it's a 'bit special' so none of these are suitable, + they're chrome which is far too blingy and would have to be stripped & painted.

This got me onto thinking about having wheels custom made... http://squaredwheels.co.uk/products/custom/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://squaredwheels.co.uk/products/custom/ is the expensive option, I've again sent them an email to see if it's possible, just a 'what-if' for now, I'd also get the rears made as 9" wide rather than 8" as stock with the backspacing adjusted accordingly so they look the same from the outside (why not eh?) I'm 99% certain there's room behind the wheel for that extra inch . And these would be painted / clearcoated to exactly mimic the stock wheels if they can make them. very

So this could be either a nicely sub-£2k job or a £6k moment of madness...

So Pics for hypothetical purposes only for now:

Stock 16" rims

17" rims (I like this car)

18" rims


What do you all think? Are 18" rims too much if the brakes fill them properly? Do you lose too much sidewall from the tyre making it look too modern?  do they 'open up' the wheels too much? The 17"s I would have no reservations about, the differences would be subtle (which is good) but the benefits would be huge with the bigger brakes.  The 18"s I'm not so sure about at the moment
.
The tyre choices are still slightly limited for 17" rims (being 245/45/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears) but are better for 18"s because more modern cars use them (being 245/40/18 fronts and 275/35/18 rears) the wheel diameter change is only 1mm for either setup.

Discuss...

[Incursus]

Quoting: FUBAR

What do you all think? Are 18" rims too much if the brakes fill them properly? Do you lose too much sidewall from the tyre making it look too modern? do they 'open up' the wheels too much? The 17"s I would have no reservations about, the differences would be subtle (which is good) but the benefits would be huge with the bigger brakes. The 18"s I'm not so sure about at the moment
.
The tyre choices are still slightly limited for 17" rims (being 245/45/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears) but are better for 18"s because more modern cars use them (being 245/40/18 fronts and 275/35/18 rears) the wheel diameter change is only 1mm for either setup.

Discuss...

Not much in it as far as I can see in pics, the 17" have the slight edge imo, they seem to fit better...though that could be the different angles in the pics.

[Amey]

I must admit I prefer the 17" ones, they look better on the car.
The 18" are to over-powering in the overall look of the car

[ianjpage]

17" as well from here, they fill the arches more "right" than the 18's IMO

[Titsy]

Quoting: Amey

I must admit I prefer the 17" ones, they look better on the car.
The 18" are to over-powering in the overall look of the car

[Andy]

Ryan, is your IROC lowered? Those two examples look like they're dropped by at least 2". Might want to factor that in when considering the look. As far as I can tell, getting way with those type of wheels you need to lose a bit of the ride height to get the tyres further into the arches.

Just my opinion and from spending a lot of time looking at really nice 3rd gens.

I like the 17" ones,  but then that is a drop dead gorgeous car overall. Loving the very subtle hood pins in the bonnet.

[F Body]

Quoting: FUBAR

Cue This company that I found this month:
https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels
Now I really like these, I damn near ordered a set as soon as I found the site, but have instead sent them an email about custom-making boards for UK spec Reverse light / Rear fog light conversions and am awaiting a response. If they can, this is pretty much exactly what I had in mind, + I like the sequential indicators (Watch the 1st video)
I need to check with the insurance company if these will affect my policy in any way as well.
What do you think? Too chavy? Too cheesy? Or a nice addition?

No not in the least Chavy because they are inside the original fittings, not some crappy aftermarket clear lens with chrome inside, the sequential function is pretty cool too

[F Body]

Quoting: FUBAR

but they still show the same problem the IROC has from stock, that the rear discs are bigger than the fronts!! (12" and 11" respectively) This really irritates me because it looks stupid.

Two questions ?

Firstly is it that noticeable, because I've never noticed on the many 3rd Gen I've closely studied

Secondly why can't you fit 12" discs to the front if they clear the rear wheels

Quoting: FUBAR

In short Yes, but not in the correct design for my car, so actually No. they all use the earlier design.
http://customwheelsmarket.com/iroczwheels.html[/quote\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">]http://customwheelsmarket.com/iroczwheels.html</div>

For me ANY chrome wheel is a no no

1/ Very very chavy.

2/ If the chrome isn't absolute top quality they will pit and corrode even if the car isn't driven.

3/ Even quality chrome can corrode inside the wheel and tyre. This is due to the change in temperature as the tyre heats up from cold, which causes condensation inside the wheel. The most common result is the chrome lifting at the tyre bead and the tyre constantly loose pressure. A very common occurrence on the Euro spec 4th Gens. Or even worse the chrome corrodes from inside the bead outwards and peals off around the rim.

This got me onto thinking about having wheels custom made... http://squaredwheels.co.uk/products/custom/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://squaredwheels.co.uk/products/custom/ is the expensive option,

£750 per wheel

IMHO the two piece designs shown in they gallery are a little weird, not liking the gap between the rims

[Incursus]

Quoting: F Body

Quoting: FUBAR
Cue This company that I found this month:
https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">https://digi-tails.com/1982-1992-chevy-camaro-led-tail-light-panels
Now I really like these, I damn near ordered a set as soon as I found the site, but have instead sent them an email about custom-making boards for UK spec Reverse light / Rear fog light conversions and am awaiting a response. If they can, this is pretty much exactly what I had in mind, + I like the sequential indicators (Watch the 1st video)
I need to check with the insurance company if these will affect my policy in any way as well.
What do you think? Too chavy? Too cheesy? Or a nice addition?


No not in the least Chavy because they are inside the original fittings, not some crappy aftermarket clear lens with chrome inside, the sequential function is pretty cool too

 I've just had a look at the Video's....I would

[Titsy]

Quite cool, but is it legal?