Thinking about Subframe Connectors...

[Roadkill]

Can't be arsed to read the above.

SFC's get 'em, weld-on.

Strut brace, yeah, get one . . . alot of people leave it with that but you can go further . . .

[300bhp per ton]

Titsy - If you want tp make your 4th Gen handle better I'd go with these components.

UMI Performance
http://www.umiperformance.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/

-Boxed weld in sub-frame connectors (got these for mine) http://www.umiperformance.com/2000.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/2000.aspx
-Adjustable lower control arms and panhard rod http://www.umiperformance.com/201621.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/201621.aspx
-Chrome Moly Shock Tower Brace http://www.umiperformance.com/2006.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/2006.aspx

If you're really serious these as well:

-Tubular K member http://www.umiperformance.com/2320.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/2320.aspx
-A-arms http://www.umiperformance.com/230010.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/230010.aspx

For drag racing:
-Body mounted Torque Arm http://www.umiperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=43\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=43

NOTE: The torque arms varies depending on the rear end, if you are serious about dragging then the stock 10 bolt rear axle is no good. Moser or Strange 12 bolt is a common swap or Ford 9".

You may also want these, but will again depend on rear end:
-Lower control arm Relocation brackets http://www.umiperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=37\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.umiperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=37


For suspension there really is only one person to speak too:

Sam @ Stano Performance Parts. http://www.stranoparts.com/index.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.stranoparts.com/index.php

He has won more circuit racing with Fbody's than anybody else I know of. His website is a bit shite, but he's pretty good on email and is also an active member on http://www.ls1tech.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.ls1tech.com

He can make a custom setup for you or has off the shelf items.

He makes his own sway bars (anti-roll) for the Fbody which are different to all others on the market. A nice combo is to go for the sway bars plus his revalved Bilstien stocks (again unique to Strano Parts) and his custom 1" lowering springs which are mathed to the shocks.



EDIT:Forgot your an LT1, just watch some of the links I've posted as they may be LS1 specific parts, I'm pretty sure there's a LT1 specific part if it is different.

[FUBAR]

or http://www.spohn.net\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.spohn.net  

[55starchief]

or http://www.bmrfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.bmrfabrication.com

[Titsy]

Take a small step back guys.... I have no intent on turning my Z28 into a drag car, I just want it to handle a little better is all... It's a heavy car that was built for straight roads, I just want to make it a little more capable or handling british roads....

I'm not looking to mortgage my life over the car, just add the odd performance tweak when I have a little money to spend...

[55starchief]

Quoting: Titsy

It's a heavy car that was built for straight roads, I just want to make it a little more capable or handling british roads....

well polybushes, lowering springs or HD springs if you want to keep the same ride height  and adjustable dampers would be best for that.

You could also uprate both antiroll bars. If you have a little more money it's worth going to coil overs as you could then pre load the car. Jamie has the scales for that. Also see if you can find some caster/camber plates as a little negative camber would realy help with the turn in on twisty roads

[300bhp per ton]

Quoting: Titsy

Take a small step back guys.... I have no intent on turning my Z28 into a drag car, I just want it to handle a little better is all... It's a heavy car that was built for straight roads, I just want to make it a little more capable or handling british roads....  

I'm not looking to mortgage my life over the car, just add the odd performance tweak when I have a little money to spend...

Just stic with the Strano suspension parts then and SFC's.

From what I've read/researched the BMR and Sphon stuff isn't anywhere near as good.

Also it's real easy to buy a shite setup and make your car handle worse.

[Titsy]

I have £260 in my shiney things pot at the moment, so I was going to start with a strut-tower brace and when I have a little more doe the SFC's... Hopefully this will make the car a little less skitish on rough roads... After that I need to get two new fog lights, two new tail lights, and get the bumper resprayed...

[55starchief]

Personaly i would replace the springs,dampers and bushes as they are likely to be worn due to the age of the car anything 10 yrs or older isnt going to perform the way it did when new. Once the ground work is done then i would look towards stiffening the chassis.

But its your car and your money.

[300bhp per ton]

Quoting: Titsy

I have £260 in my shiney things pot at the moment, so I was going to start with a strut-tower brace and when I have a little more doe the SFC's... Hopefully this will make the car a little less skitish on rough roads... After that I need to get two new fog lights, two new tail lights, and get the bumper resprayed...

I've got a STB and honestly it makes little or no difference. Sure if I was on a circuit with 12" slicks at each corner, but not on the street. And trust me I pound on it pretty good.

In all honesty I'm impressed with how well the 4th gen handles. Sure it's a big car and high speed sweepers it's a little wollowy but it handles really well IMO. Loads of grip, nice steering feel and superb turn in (although washes out a little mid corner).

My z/28 easily handles as well/better than my previous V12 XJS which had IRS suspension.

SFC's - these should help reduce creaks and groans and chassis flex over rough ground but they are better served for drag racing in helping to prevent the chassis bananaring.


IMO - I would get the Stano sway bar kit - STR-35M/22MM Kit

And the revalved shocks to go with the sway bars. And replace any bushes that are knackered.

[55starchief]

Alternativly just give Koni Technical a call and get some sport adjustables which will be fine for what you do with the car

[300bhp per ton]

Yeah that'd be good also, actually wouldn't mind knowing the price.

Sam Strano recommends Koni adjustables but they cost nearly double what his revalved Bilstiens do.

[55starchief]

Quoting: 300bhp per ton

Yeah that'd be good also, actually wouldn't mind knowing the price.

Sam Strano recommends Koni adjustables but they cost nearly double what his revalved Bilstiens do.

If you call KONI technical not 'Koni' they deal with all the specialist stuff they even built me custom units for my 1955 pontiac. If you give them all the information they can valve them as you want. I will have a look tonight and see if i still have the contact details on file

[300bhp per ton]

Coolio

[55starchief]

ok here it is

koni technical 01252 516797 Ray Cross was the guy i was dealing with but that was back in 2002

[HardRockCamaro]

Sponh stuff is good on 3rd gens at any rate.
One of the guys on 3rd gen.org does very well at autocrossing with his IROC and he has Spohn stuff.  The expensive variants (rose jointed?).  The car can pull 1.2G on a skidpan but it rides like c**p on the road.

I intend to go with Bilstein (if I can afford it) or Tokico for the dampers with either Eibach or Hotckiss springs and either BMR, Spohn or Hotckkiss for the tubular bits.
I will be going polybushed not "rose jointed" (?) but I will pay extra for the adjustable tubular bits to allow for the lowering springs.

[FUBAR]

A Picture Says a thousand Words...
Although I do have to add some of this list (especially Orders 5 & 6) are purely theoretical and a bit extreme.  and also unless my financial situation changes quite drastically it'll pretty much be 1 order per year...



The only exception is the Brake Lines which may be bumped right up the list after Titsy got such a good improvement with his...

[55starchief]

dude did you make that spredsheet, if so you have way to much free time

[FUBAR]

Quoting: 55starchief

dude did you make that spredsheet

I like to think of it more as having 'evolved' LOL

+ I did most of it at work before I got bolloxed!

[55starchief]

Quoting: FUBAR

I like to think of it more as having 'evolved' LOL

+ I did most of it at work before I got bolloxed!

hm maybe i should make some spredsheets at work

[FUBAR]

There's another page too for SLP exhaust bits & a few purely hypothetical bits from http://www.tpis.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.tpis.com  that page is cheaper, but the SLP exhaust keeps itching cos I really want to get that all finished with headers, new CAT etc to get it all new & stainless

[Big Mouse]

Mine is a slightly newer version than yours Titsy but overall the same car. With Eibach Pro lowering springs, SLP sub frame connectors and a tower brace mine was like a different car around corners - it drove like any decent euro box around a bend instead of like a bag of jelly.

You really don't need to spend much to get it a big increase in cornering performance. I'd go sub frame - springs then brace if money was tight.

I went for bolt in because I can't weld - if you can (or know a man...) then deffo go for the weld ins.

This isn't any particular endorsement of SLP products - I used them because they had a good reputation for fit and were easy to order from. Any decent brand will do the same.

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Big Mouse

Mine is a slightly newer version than yours Titsy but overall the same car. With Eibach Pro lowering springs, SLP sub frame connectors and a tower brace mine was like a different car around corners - it drove like any decent euro box around a bend instead of like a bag of jelly.

You really don't need to spend much to get it a big increase in cornering performance. I'd go sub frame - springs then brace if money was tight.

I went for bolt in because I can't weld - if you can (or know a man...) then deffo go for the weld ins.

This isn't any particular endorsement of SLP products - I used them because they had a good reputation for fit and were easy to order from. Any decent brand will do the same.

That looks like some sound advise

[Jamieg285]

Quoting: HardRockCamaro

(rose jointed?

Spherical bearings. Very precise, but no give, so generally only used for racing applications

[55starchief]

Rays car is also newer meaning less wear on dampers and bushings.

My SAAB 9000 was the same age as titsys maro and about the same weight. After changing the stock springs for new ones adding koni adjustables and polybushing the car handled totaly different.

But then again thats just this assholes opinion and of course i know nothing