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Project Monster BBQ

Started by 55starchief, January 18, 2006, 12:51:08 PM

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FUBAR

How about on of these for a Handle...



http://www.a2a4.co.uk/acatalog/LOW_FLAT_CLEATS_art_8221.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.a2a4.co.uk/acatalog/LOW_FLAT_CLEATS_art_8221.html

Its A4 grade Stainless and 250mm long...  with 2 M8 fixings thats not going anywhere with decent Bolts too.

(£27 though)

All it would mean is that we'd have to have a decent pair of oven gloves present to open the hatch with...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Titsy

How about we just weld on two or three struts of box section and fix a wooden handle across them...

FUBAR

Quoting: Titsy
How about we just weld on some box section and fix a wooden handle across it...


that would also work... not pimpy though
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Titsy

yeah, but neither is moaring your boat on a BBQ...

55starchief

Quoting: Titsy

If they are upto the job then the plus side would be that we can remove the lid when cooking should we want to.


That was my thinking, they are the proper heavy duty 5 bar gate hinges not the flimsy garden gate ones. Once welded on i cant see how they would warp

FUBAR

One things about the siting of the old handle... when you opened the hot lid you had to arch your wrist up because the handle dissappeared behind the lid... is there a way to drop the handle down below the bottom edge of the lid section (when closed) so that it is above the lid when open?  thus preventing this problem...

Also withe the new hinges the Lid WILL need a Backstop to stop stressing the hinges...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Titsy

Quoting: 55starchief
That was my thinking


It wasn't my thinking though, I was refering to the ones FUBAR found with the R-Clip...

Titsy

Quoting: FUBAR
One things about the siting of the old handle... when you opened the hot lid you had to arch your wrist up because the handle dissappeared behind the lid... is there a way to drop the handle down below the bottom edge of the lid section (when closed) so that it is above the lid when open? thus preventing this problem...


You could do what I said with the box section but weld it at a tangent to the lid so that it hangs below the bottom edge of the lid... that way you can keep hold of it the whole way up...

FUBAR

Quoting: Titsy
You could do what I said with the box section but weld it at a tangent to the lid so that it hangs below the bottom edge of the lid... that way you can keep hold of it the whole way up...


Yeah that would work
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

Quoting: Titsy


It wasn't my thinking though, I was refering to the ones FUBAR found with the R-Clip...


with the HD gate hinges you could remove the lid when its hot unlike the 'R' clips which would get hot.

Quoting: FUBAR

Also withe the new hinges the Lid WILL need a Backstop to stop stressing the hinges...


Again another reason for the gate hinge as it would fold back on its self. The rod it hinges on is quite thick almost 1/2" so should be man enough. If you have ever lifted a 5 bar gate its not light at all, i would say almost as heavy as the damn tank

Titsy

Quoting: 55starchief
Again another reason for the gate hinge as it would fold back on its self.


You would still need to fit something to stop the lid as it would fold all the way back over the BBQ with the gate hinges stopping you from closing it without bursting into flames...

Quoting: 55starchief
with the HD gate hinges you could remove the lid when its hot unlike the 'R' clips which would get hot.


Not if you remove it before firing up...

ianjpage

more than happy to help work on it.

definatley think we need to re cut the top part of the opening to make it level, weld up & gtrind back existing holes, then drill & fit which ever hinges...do that first then sort handle out....

FUBAR

Quoting: ianjpage
definatley think we need to re cut the top part of the opening to make it level, weld up & gtrind back existing holes, then drill & fit which ever hinges...do that first then sort handle out....


Or...

You mount the hinges to a hefty strip of steel or stainless (pref steel) on both sides of the hinge... that way the huge strip can be seam welded to the tank all along and not only does it tidy up the gap along the top edge but it gives you a solid base to be bolting the stainless hinges too.

this also ensures that the hinges will be 100% lined up even before mounting preventing the stress related death that the last ones suffered from.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

if you want to be really artistic you could design in a flame design stretching over the top of the tank from the hinges disguising in design the fact that the sawsal wobbly cut had to be covered...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

Well i dont care what you guys do as long as it gets done. The top edge also needs capping and the side panels on the front need the corner trim. Also need to find some rivets with a large diameter head 10mm to match with the others used to fix the trim on

ianjpage

Quoting: FUBAR

Or...

You mount the hinges to a hefty strip of steel or stainless (pref steel) on both sides of the hinge... that way the huge strip can be seam welded to the tank all along and not only does it tidy up the gap along the top edge but it gives you a solid base to be bolting the stainless hinges too.

this also ensures that the hinges will be 100% lined up even before mounting preventing the stress related death that the last ones suffered from.


Ai true, although i think that then you are gunna put all the stress on teh welds, which are (if they go) a bigger job than some new hinges to replace??

Quoting: FUBAR

if you want to be really artistic you could design in a flame design stretching over the top of the tank from the hinges disguising in design the fact that the sawsal wobbly cut had to be covered...






Quoting: 55starchief

Well i dont care what you guys do as long as it gets done. The top edge also needs capping and the side panels on the front need the corner trim. Also need to find some rivets with a large diameter head 10mm to match with the others used to fix the trim on


Yeah def needs doing before the AACUK Spring nats!!

Jamieg285

Personally, I'd do a custom hinge.

One long bar, 1/2 diameter or thicker, and then some tube, a with a bit bigger hole down the middle, i.e. allows the bar to move, but not to snug or sloppy.

Cut the tube into sections.  With the pieces of tube on the bar, and the bar in the final position, weld alternate tubes to the lid and the others to the body - add strips of metal to extend/fit as required.

Make sure the bar is at least 2 inches wider than the outermost bits of tube, and drill throuh to be able to insert R-clips to hold it in place/allow easy removal of the bar to remove the door.

The single bar will remove the need to allign multiple hinges.


As for the handle, I'd go for something similar to what Titsy has suggested - Tube (nicer than box section) welded to the lid (angled down as discussed) then something like a wooden bannister rail for the handle.

55starchief

Quoting: Jamieg285

Personally, I'd do a custom hinge.

One long bar, 1/2 diameter or thicker, and then some tube, a with a bit bigger hole down the middle, i.e. allows the bar to move, but not to snug or sloppy.

Cut the tube into sections. With the pieces of tube on the bar, and the bar in the final position, weld alternate tubes to the lid and the others to the body - add strips of metal to extend/fit as required.

Make sure the bar is at least 2 inches wider than the outermost bits of tube, and drill throuh to be able to insert R-clips to hold it in place/allow easy removal of the bar to remove the door.

The single bar will remove the need to allign multiple hinges.



Thats basicaly what a 5 bar ghate hinge is, hence the reason for sugesting that. But what do i know

Jamieg285

Yes, but they require multiple hinges... and aligning properly.

55starchief

Quoting: Jamieg285
Yes, but they require multiple hinges... and aligning properly.


i was going to recomend a pair which would be more than enough for that lid. But if others want to use other soloutions i dont mind

FUBAR

Quoting: 55starchief
But what do i know


Don't get like that just because something different was suggested, it wasn't ment like that at all.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

ianjpage

both ways will work just as well....

EDGE

im sure b & q sell really long mild steel hinges that you cut to length.....

ianjpage

Quoting: EDGE

im sure b & q sell really long mild steel hinges that you cut to length.....


Hmmmm

Jamieg285

Not sure they'd have anything that heavy duty.  The best they would have is likely to be gate hinges, or maybe some 3 inch butt hinges.