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Project Monster BBQ

Started by 55starchief, January 18, 2006, 12:51:08 PM

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ianjpage

Quoting: Roadkill

The bracing lay-out on the second design wouldn't be efficient.


first one ok then i take it ??

Quoting: Roadkill

I'm fine with that - I was thinking other stuff . . .


cool - what stuff then ??

Roadkill

Quoting: ianjpage
first one ok then i take it ??


Basically, yeah.  I'd alter the bracing lay out a little but not much.

Quoting: ianjpage
cool - what stuff then ??


Not sure, yet . . . Just want to have a look over it, first and see . . .

ianjpage

Quoting: Roadkill


Basically, yeah. I'd alter the bracing lay out a little but not much.


okies - have to sketch summat out then

Quoting: Roadkill

Not sure, yet . . . Just want to have a look over it, first and see . . .



art b

 some old pistons for handles...
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

FUBAR

Quoting: Titsy
Quoting: FUBAR
A nicer looking Handle arrangement (again not urgent)

Conrods and some bar...


Ooh I like...

thst given me an idea...  you probably wouldn;t even need anything else as you could use the big ends as loop handles.

Angle them down so you can reach them over the lid when open. & just weld them on.

I know they'd be metal handles but if you think about it the lid is only ever open when the BBQ is hot, and it was the Heating / furnace idea that got the lid so hot before that it killed the original mountings.



On the hinge note, A2A4 haven't come back to me so i'll order the giant hinge from juststainless.co.uk i reckon, its not cheap I know but it will look good
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

F Body

Quoting: FUBAR
On the hinge note, A2A4 haven't come back to me so i'll order the giant hinge from juststainless.co.uk i reckon, its not cheap I know but it will look good



Is the current hinge bolted or welded on ?

Just thinking that you won't be able to weld the stainless to the mild steel tank

FUBAR

Bolted, because of the size of the new hinge bolting that on will not be a problem either as we can work around the old holes (& cover them up)
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Titsy

Quoting: FUBAR
thst given me an idea...


I was thinking more of removing the bearing caps and bolting the big ends onto the lid using the fasteners, then using the little ends to hold a bar...

Plus, we know a guy with 10 scrap conrods...

FUBAR

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

EDGE

if you use a wooden bar it wont get nearly as hot so you'll still be able to touch it

FUBAR

Quoting: EDGE
if you use a wooden bar it wont get nearly as hot so you'll still be able to touch it


thats what we have at the moment, for that very reason.  I prefer Steve's idea to mine so that would work well.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: Titsy
I was thinking more of removing the bearing caps and bolting the big ends onto the lid using the fasteners


That's what I'd guessed you meant.

What's the overall length, centre-to-centre . . . we don't want them too long ?

Titsy

Quoting: Roadkill
What's the overall length, centre-to-centre . . . we don't want them too long ?


Of what, con rods...? Kinda depends on the doner...

FUBAR

Today was a very productive day,

- Tank was cleaned thoroughly and completely, was rather worrying how much congealed grease was in various corners of that tank
- Hotplate Thoroughly cleaned to be reinstalled at a later date.

- Lid was then removed & stripped of all fittings,
 - Hinges & backstop screws removed to alow fitting of new hinge
 - Handle removed & welds ground off nice 'n' smooth
 - Edging strips unbolted & to be replaced... mainly because the handle was welded to 2 of them & various bolts etc were destroyed already so we thought it would be wise to just start again with new strips.

** Note on the handle, unfortunately Titsy's idea for using Con rods will not work, having looked again today they will be FAR too long **

- The Stacks were left on because Phil has said that he won't be able to sort them at work "for months" so they are going to be polished up again in-situ.

- Tank & Lid were then painted with 1 brush on coat of VHT Matt Black & 1 thorough coat of Aerosol VHT Semi-matt black

- Measurements were taken etc to allow the following to be sourced:
 - Hinge - http://www.juststainless.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.juststainless.co.uk (Ryan buying)
 - Handle Mountings - probably something fromhttp://www.juststainless.co.uk\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.juststainless.co.uk
 - Edging strips - ??  2m needed of 3mm thick 30mm wide Stainless Steel.


For attaching the new lid fittings there is a box of M6 Cap head screws in the barn that look pretty good, they will be a bit more prominent than the old ones which were ( shaped.  Also because the tank has been pre-painted this time all the edging strips will be shiny stainless so it should look pretty good.

I'm sure Ian will post some pics he took today soon

Any comments/ideas guys?
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

ianjpage

Quoting: FUBAR
Today was a very productive day,


indeed it was a good day - fricking knackered now though !!

Quoting: FUBAR
- Tank was cleaned thoroughly and completely, was rather worrying how much congealed grease was in various corners of that tank  


Yeah very clean and shiny now as well as more hygenic as used proper Cillit Bang stuff to clean and degrease it!!

Quoting: FUBAR
I'm sure Ian will post some pics he took today soon  


yup here ya go -> http://bbq.mkb.cc/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=10\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://bbq.mkb.cc/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=10

Quoting: FUBAR
Edging strips - ?? 2m needed of 3mm thick 30mm wide Stainless Steel.


spoke to phil - shouldn't be a prob he says - i will work out how much for sure and put the 'order' in

ianjpage

also gunna count up and get the angle ordered for the bottom charcole grill so DEAN can you lemme know what change you thought would be good to the diagram i did...

FUBAR

Ian, can you PM me all the measurements we took today please m8.

Did we measure the depth of the cooking surface by any chance?
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

ianjpage

Quoting: FUBAR

Ian, can you PM me all the measurements we took today please m8.

yeah will do in the morn' - paper is downstairs and im orf to bed now!

Quoting: FUBAR

Did we measure the depth of the cooking surface by any chance?


Erm, nope don't think we did....

Andy

Wow, thats so fecking cool! Got 29 pages to read on the construction, but the BBQ looks ace!

EDIT: Sorry for the typical newbie remark!

FUBAR

Quoting: ianjpage
Erm, nope don't think we did....


Ok no worries
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: Andy
EDIT: Sorry for the typical newbie remark!


You're forgiven.

Ian - Re the bracing.

Looking at the frame as a rectangle, longest sides top and bottom, you want the bracing (I'd suggest a slightly smaller sized angle to sit within) to start mid point on the smaller sides (roughly as you've drawn) and maintain a 45* angle to the longer sides . . .

This will leave a fair gap between the ends of the bracing on the long sides so, dependant on actual measurement, it may be prudent to add a further piece to span the gap (mid point of the long side - parallel to the short side.
Although I think this would be overkill.

I'd recommend around 30x30 - to - 40x40 for the mainframe and 25x25 - to - 30x30 for the bracing respectively.



As for further ideas I still need to come down and see her again . . . .

As for the work so far - it all sounds good.

ianjpage

Quoting: Roadkill

Ian - Re the bracing.

Looking at the frame as a rectangle, longest sides top and bottom, you want the bracing (I'd suggest a slightly smaller sized angle to sit within) to start mid point on the smaller sides (roughly as you've drawn) and maintain a 45* angle to the longer sides . . .

This will leave a fair gap between the ends of the bracing on the long sides so, dependant on actual measurement, it may be prudent to add a further piece to span the gap (mid point of the long side - parallel to the short side.
Although I think this would be overkill.

I'd recommend around 30x30 - to - 40x40 for the mainframe and 25x25 - to - 30x30 for the bracing respectively.


ok **think** i get wot you mean need to re-do me drawing somepoint today!

phil can get 30x30, 40x40 or 50x50  - so would 50x50 for the main and 30x30 for the bracing be enough to withstand the heat??

Quoting: Roadkill

As for further ideas I still need to come down and see her again . . . .


Prob going down again in a fortnight (ryan??)

Roadkill

Quoting: ianjpage
so would 50x50 for the main and 30x30 for the bracing be enough to withstand the heat??


I'd say 40x40 and 30x30 respectively should be fine.

If the heat effects those it'd distort the next size up, too.

Quoting: ianjpage
Prob going down again in a fortnight (ryan??)


O.K, noted.

Roadkill

Also - I'd get them shot-blasted before using them for the first time . . . Personally.

ianjpage

Quoting: ianjpage

Quoting: Roadkill

Ian - Re the bracing.

Looking at the frame as a rectangle, longest sides top and bottom, you want the bracing (I'd suggest a slightly smaller sized angle to sit within) to start mid point on the smaller sides (roughly as you've drawn) and maintain a 45* angle to the longer sides . . .

This will leave a fair gap between the ends of the bracing on the long sides so, dependant on actual measurement, it may be prudent to add a further piece to span the gap (mid point of the long side - parallel to the short side.
Although I think this would be overkill.

I'd recommend around 30x30 - to - 40x40 for the mainframe and 25x25 - to - 30x30 for the bracing respectively.


ok **think** i get wot you mean need to re-do me drawing somepoint today!


OK IF i interpret correctly summat like this (ignore the lines not aligning properly - best i can do in mspaint lol!)

http://www.yanksrule.co.uk/temp/Plan1-1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">