Ryan's Camaro Project Thread...

Started by FUBAR, October 18, 2005, 01:04:20 PM

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55starchief

Quoting: FUBAR

aah ok thats just a twist the Dizzy Cap round job to adjust that isn't it?


yeah with the aid of a timing light though, dont go twisting without

FUBAR

no I wasn't going too, its only tiny amounts too isn't it...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

ianjpage

i got a timing light if ya needs it (up the barn on sat?)

FUBAR

should be yeah, dunno if i'm driving or not...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

As mentioned, sounds like a mixture of fuel mix and Ignition timing.

It's wise to check your timing quite regular as it can "creep".

Many things effect it . . . . After removing the remains of my exhaust I found that the engine "popped" on heavy decelleration . . . . this was cured by re-setting the timing.

Now she sounds great - all the time.

Jamieg285

Quoting: Roadkill
After removing the remains of my exhaust I found that the engine "popped" on heavy decelleration


You ricer!!!

FUBAR

I think mine just needs tuning
I'd rather not fiddle with too much stuff but the timing check & a tweak of the idle mix is needed.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: Jamieg285
You ricer!!!


Yup.


FUBAR

MOT Retest yesterday...

Passed ok... just
Talk about nit-pickey though he was going to fail it again because the adjustable steering column wobbled slightly in position!

Chris:  The handbrake 'fix' made only a tiny difference... just enough to *ahem* get away with an advisory notice

Still done & dusted for another year!

Good news though is that my mixture adjustment worked, went from circa 1500 Hc ppm to 527 Hc ppm   but the CO went up from 0.23% to 1.54%
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Good news on emissions, Mate.

Speak to me re. M.o.T next year and avoid all the hassle.

Incursus

Quoting: FUBAR
Chris: The handbrake 'fix' made only a tiny difference... just enough to *ahem* get away with an advisory notice


Well we can always tighten it more, not a problem.

FUBAR

Guys...

Just out of interest, these parts are all compatible & suitable aren't they...
(Summit Part Nos i'm afraid)

HOK-16767HKR     Y-Pipe
HOK-2460HKR       Headers
ARP-400-1101       Bolts

SUM-G1369          Heat Shield

Just thinking for a future shipment...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Jamieg285

Not had time to look.  What year/config is your car?

55starchief

If your gonna order engine parts can you ask andy for a price first rather than shipping straight from jegs. He can sometimes be a little cheaper and its nice to support him

FUBAR

I will do m8, at the moment i'm just window shopping with an Itchy Credit Card
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

Quoting: FUBAR
i'm just window shopping with an Itchy Credit Card


Thats a dangerous thing mate

FUBAR

Quoting: 55starchief
Thats a dangerous thing mate


Tell me about it! especially things like that which have been on the cards for ages and are a very good idea...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Jamieg285

Quoting: FUBAR
HOK-16767HKR Y-Pipe
HOK-2460HKR Headers
ARP-400-1101 Bolts

SUM-G1369 Heat Shield



Headers and pipes look right, and Andy can probably get them for you (part numbers 16767 & 2460 will be the Hooker part no.s)

My personal preference with the header bolts is for internal hex, i.e. you need an allen key for them.  Some of the bolts will be so close the the tubes that you won't be able to get a socket on them, making a hand wrench the only option.  Spinning them in with the long end of the allen key, then tightening with the short is much easier.  From memory, they are 3/8 coarse, by about 1 inch long.  I have some at home which I could let you have one as a pattern to take to a bolt stockist if you want.

I would also recommend that you get some good quality header gaskets (head and collector end). The ones that come supplied are cheap and rubbish, and will be more likely to start blowing.

Finally, I reckon that we could build our own heat sheild, it's not much more than a piece of metal at the end of the day.

Roadkill

Quoting: Jamieg285
I would also recommend that you get some good quality header gaskets (head and collector end). The ones that come supplied are cheap and rubbish, and will be more likely to start blowing.


My fel-pro ones are good, so far . . . See JWR.

Jamieg285

Quoting: Roadkill
My fel-pro ones are good


Yep, I'm a fan of their gaskets.

55starchief

What do you want a heat shield for? thats added weight

FUBAR

Cool, cheers for the advise on the gaskets, sounds like a good plan to me
With the Bolts would I be able to get suitable ones? are the ARP ones just generic or are they specifically designed?

With the heat shield for ease i'd probably just buy one, its only about a tenner & saves having to make one up.


Another question...  what would need doing to attach the end of the Stainless Y-Pipe/ Cat pipe thing to my existing exhaust system?  Currently its stainless only from the rear axle back.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
With the Bolts would I be able to get suitable ones?


See US less Auto's website for the bolts.

US auto and JWR will do a pack for the SBC - that's where I got mine from.

You definately want CSK SKT head, as Jamie says - if you can get them.

Roadkill

http://www.usautomotive.co.uk/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=140\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.usautomotive.co.uk/store/scripts/prodVi ew.asp?idproduct=140

These are standard ones . . . . (HEX head) . . . Using the length and thread detail you could enquire about Counter-sunk socket headed ones. (often called internal hex/allen key bolts )