Ryan's Camaro Project Thread...

Started by FUBAR, October 18, 2005, 01:04:20 PM

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FUBAR

Quoting: 55starchief
Yup, the pontiac motor would make mor torque they always have done over chevy motors


what Pontiac Motor? he's only talking about 305 Chevys...
The engine was removed from that 1977 Malibu and dropped into a 1970 Pontiac LeMans Sport to replace a screwed up 350 Chevy that was in the car when I bought it.



I notice DeanO's getting ideas...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

Roadkill

Quoting: FUBAR
I notice DeanO's getting ideas...


Maybe a Mono-Carb'ed 4.71 . . . and a bottom end stroke / rebuild.


55starchief

Quoting: FUBAR
what Pontiac Motor? he's only talking about 305 Chevys...


Ah ok miss read that

Quoting: FUBAR
I notice DeanO's getting ideas...


Yup a 4-71 blower would be a nice addition, have just been checking the figures on desktop dyno and it looks good, although when stroked its even better.

Would definatly recomend a 4 bolt conversion though if adding a blower. the kit runs about $250

FUBAR

TRW #274 cam, new chain, flex fan


can't find that cam anywhere...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

here you go boys

http://www.hamptonblowers.com/PRICE.HTML\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.hamptonblowers.com/PRICE.HTML

Quoting: FUBAR
can't find that cam anywhere...


Dont think its a TRW mate probably a comp


Roadkill

Rebuilt GMC Blower 4-71 or 671............$1300.00  

They don't sell 'em on Jegs, just 6.71-8.71 . . .

55starchief

ok a quick map on dd200 says that a stroked 305 to say 340 with a blower at 10psi and a comp ratio of 9-1 matched to that 274 cam would give 320hp and 420ftlb@3k

Roadkill

Quoting: 55starchief
320hp


Fek !

Again,

55starchief

Quoting: Roadkill
Fek !


no mate its this thats more impresive 420 ft lb of torque @ 3000rpm

FUBAR

I'm just thinking...
Bottom end rebuild (what does this entail?) probably without stroking.
Ed. Performer Intake.
Cam Kit http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DK12%2D246%2D3&N=115&autoview=sku\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DK12%2D246%2D3&N=115&autoview=sku
+ those headers I was looking at recently...
E-Prom Remap to remove the EGR code error (PhilO?)
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

Quoting: FUBAR

Bottom end rebuild (what does this entail?) probably without stroking.



Normally just bearings mate, although if you have the money and are thinking of adding more power at a later date i would fit a 4 bolt main conversion

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=16553&parentCategoryId=11503\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=16553&parentCategoryId=11503

would also lookinto a windage tray as you could pick up 20hp there

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/windage_trays/windage_trays.html#plus\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/windage_trays/windage_trays.html#plus

Jamieg285

Quoting: 55starchief
no mate its this thats more impresive 420 ft lb of torque @ 3000rpm


That's close to what I get from my 400.

Jamieg285

Quoting: FUBAR
Bottom end rebuild (what does this entail?)


Depends on what you want to do.  You can as G says, just put new bearings in, but you could replace crank, rods, pistons etc (but that's pretty much doing the stroker kit...)

The more you do, the better (stonger and last longer) it will be, and it will give you a solid base to add other goodies.

Roadkill

. . .  Must . . . . . Resist . . . . .

FUBAR

The cam that this guy say about,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DK12%2D246%2D3&N=115&autoview=sku\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DK12%2D246%2D3&N=115&autoview=sku

How Much more radical is it than the stock 305 cam steel Rod? is it going to affect the Computer in anyway (PhilO?)
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

FUBAR

Quoting: Jamieg285
Depends on what you want to do. You can as G says, just put new bearings in, but you could replace crank, rods, pistons etc (but that's pretty much doing the stroker kit...)

The more you do, the better (stonger and last longer) it will be, and it will give you a solid base to add other goodies.


At the very least my engine needs the Piston Rings replacing. + as its knocking a bit that needs investigating too.
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

55starchief

Quoting: FUBAR
How Much more radical is it than the stock 305


Thats a pretty lumpy cam mate

274 int. means that out of each rotation ie 360 degrees that it has the valve open for 274 degrees

286 exh.means that out of each rotation ie 360 degrees that it has the valve open for 286 degrees


Would expect the computer to simply adjust to the data it receieves from the sensors

55starchief

stock valve duration was

179 int

194 exg



Roadkill

Err.

Computer Controlled Compatible: No

philoldsmobile

Quoting: FUBAR
How Much more radical is it than the stock 305 cam steel Rod? is it going to affect the Computer in anyway (PhilO?)


as a rule of thumb, a streetable cam shouldn't upset the computer..

people always over cam, you dont gain any more power by going nuts with the cam, so look for something mild ish,

as a rough guide, many cam manufacturers give an idle rating, from smooth to choppy..

i'd go with something rated as 'noticable' rather than lopey or choppy.

a wild cam can leave you with very poor brakes too, especialy in traffic.

-edit- just seen that its not comp compatible, but that probably menas there is no drive on the back of the cam for a later car with a cam position sensor.. 274 and 286? hell no.. that would be murder on the street.... thats a race cam.

Roadkill

You certainly don't want a Lumpy Cam for an everydayer - It'll drive you nuts and will idle like $hit.


philoldsmobile



this will make your car likely slower than stock.... check the operating range, it begins above the stall speed of your converter, so its just gonna bog when you move off, the stock converter stalls about 1300 rpm, so you want a cam that is rated from idle  to about 50000

never use a cam or inlet that has a higher minimum working speed than the converter stall...

philoldsmobile

also bear in mind that 1800rpm is well into motorway cruising speed, say you got in some traffic at 55- 60 with that cam, leaving you around 1500 rpm, its gonna cough fart and waste an awful lot of fuel..

philoldsmobile

better, but i'd personaly see that operating range more like 1200 - 5200 but it would be usable..

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DSK12%2D262%2D4&N=400114+4294861490+4294786240+4294887084+115&autoview=sku\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DSK12%2D262%2D4&N=400114+4294861490+4294786240+4294887084+115&autoview=sku

do a search on http://www.thirdgen.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.thirdgen.org for "lt1 cam" its very popular and works well.