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my engine

Started by Gator, April 10, 2009, 07:34:09 AM

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Gator

new territory for me this ive got it stripped ready for cleaning and paint i am a bit wary of getting any crap n filth from prep work into places it shouldnt go so will lay the valley pan back in and block of any holes ect and keep going over eveything with air as i clean

any tips would be much appreciated   ie anything else i should do while i have the chance

i have a brand new edelbrock timing chain and gear set that i blagged years ago is it worth fitting ? are they much hassle to do ? if so i wont bother coz the one on it looks pretty good




F Body

Quoting: Gator
any tips would be much appreciated


Clean the oily deposits from around the orifices stick duck tape over them, this will also protect the mating surfaces from paint !

Quoting: Gator
i have a brand new edelbrock timing chain and gear set that i blagged years ago is it worth fitting ?


Well it ain't doing anything in a box ! Get it fitted !

Gator

cheers Martyn i was just looking at it and thought the same thing with the ductape

Jamieg285

I used masking tape on the 'bare' sections. It's easier to trim the edges for an accurate finish.

Oven cleaner does a good job of degreasing. Spray it on leave for 30 mins, then rinse off.  It will make a mess of the floor, so protect it up front to save further cleaning later.

If there is any slack in the chain, swap it.  Just make sure you line the crank/cam up right when you put the new one on.
If the used one is in good nick, you could flog it on ebay.

philoldsmobile

TBH even if there isn't any slack in the chain i'd still fit the new one, its such an easy job. SBC's are known for loosing power due to slack cam chains, if you can turn the crank even the tiniest amount without the cam moving, its  never going to make full power, as the cam timing will be slightly retarded.

for prepping the block, after a thorough degreasing (oven cleaner, as mentioned earlier) go over the block with methylated spirit or cellulose thinners, to totally remove any residue that may be left.

Roadkill

Quoting: Jamieg285
I used masking tape on the 'bare' sections. It's easier to trim the edges for an accurate finish.


Absolutely

Jobs to do - assuming you're NOT stripping it further :

I'd pull the push rods and tappets lifters and inspect, clean, clean bores, oil and replace if O.K.

While out look over the cam lobes for any obvious damage rotate as needed . . . Check the rods (in situ if you like) and piston skirts/bores . . . rotate the assembly to inspect as much as possible.
Clean out the oil pick up filter/gauze.
Check big end torques / main mearing torques etc . . . .

Clean out your oil pan thoroughly !

Are the heads coming off ?

Carb / Brake cleaner is the best for degreasing and good prep for paint . . although it's F*cking expensive so get a pan underneath and collect the used stuff to reuse for "small-part" work.

"Wynns" Carb/brake cleaner is THE BEST as it maintains high pressure right up until the last drop whereas all others rapidly loose pressure and end up trickling out the nozzle.

Use carb cleaner and stiff brushes to clean the block - avoid using rag as that'll leave loads of bits of fluff and lint which'll effect the paint job (brushes just leave thick brissles that are easy to spot and remove).

Before painting dig out as much $hit from the back of the block (behind the flex-plate / flywheel area) . . . although you won't bother paint here you'll get contamination to the nearby areas which'll F*ck up your finish.

Gator

oven cleaner rules

not sure about the heads Dean it would make sense

Titsy

Quoting: Gator
not sure about the heads Dean it would make sense


For the cost of two gaskets it's worth doing...

It's worth while checking the valve guides are good and maybe just giving the valves a quick paste and grind in too...

Jamieg285

Also, give all the threads a chase, before painting to clear out the dirt, then after painting to clear the paint.

Don't make my mistake and buy a cheap set, on of the shafts was so thin it twisted and snapped. Had to spend hours carefully drilling the end out of the block.

Gator

timing chain and sprockets swapped theres a big difference in chain tension now so worth doing

air compressors are just the handiest things i have a long nose gun that fits in the bolt threads and other intimate areas

ran out of oven cleaner and everything is closed today so did some more of the endless painting






heads will be coming off

F Body

Looking

What colour are you painting the block

Gator

Quoting: F Body
Looking  

What colour are you painting the block


everything is going to be black with chrome rockers air cleaner lid and sump pan set in a red engine bay

sixpack2639

Quoting: Gator
timing chain and sprockets swapped  

Yer much better off with that double roller chain than the stock one anyway matey!


philoldsmobile

if ya got it, its silly not to.. you gained a couple of BHP right there by the cam timing being spot on...

FUBAR

Sounds like things are going well,  Looks good too
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

cuban pete


Gator

damn you mr kill





cuban pete

Those heads look like they weigh a feckin ton

Gator

Quoting: cuban pete
Those heads look like they weigh a feckin ton


theres nothing on this engine that doesnt i have some new lighter upgrades on the way

Gator

update

i am well chuffed its gone very well thus far just need to order some bolts and its head fitting time  






FUBAR

those Head Gaskets aren't a very precise fit are they

Looks good tho, very cool
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

ianjpage


Gator

Quoting: FUBAR
those Head Gaskets aren't a very precise fit are they  

Looks good tho, very cool


if you mean coz the bores aint quite round then youd be wrong there are lips cut away at the top

FUBAR

aah right ok... I think I know what you mean...
It's the time that we kill that keeps us alive...

philoldsmobile

it looks like they overlap the lifters too...